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TeaThe sound of a scream knocked me to the ground – I quickly looked around to see any signs of life, but there was nothing except the chattering sounds of teenagers in the trees. I was supposedly standing in a churchyard in Pluckley Britain’s most haunted village (According to the Guinness Book of World Records), and I was scared. And then I heard it again, this time there was more. But that was the middle of the day, surely you wouldn’t see ghosts on a slightly hazy Sunday afternoon in October?
i know most people love Halloweenis associated with Ghosts, apparitions and terrifying eventsBut I can’t afford it. Even as a child I refused to dress up and go trick-or-treating. The closest I got in a year was to reluctantly dress up as Maude from The Worst Witch, complete with horn-rimmed glasses and a fancy dress party I left early for. But I’m afraid my days of avoiding a certain late October day are numbered because my son is likely to get carried away with excitement this time of year, and I don’t want to look like a pumpkin-party-pooper. So I did what any mother would do, pulled on my wellies and headed out into the countryside in search of ghosts.
Pluckley is situated on the edge of the North Downs in Kent, just over an hour from London. this is one charming village Red brick huts and houses with roses adorning the walls, and fruit trees groaning with autumn’s abundance. Everything seems perfectly arranged, even the windows are all alike, known locally as the “Dering Window”, named after Sir Edward Dering, who escaped capture by the Roundheads during the Civil War through a narrow arched window at the top. But this was not an architectural tour, I was looking for ghosts.
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There are reportedly twelve or thirteen ghosts in and around the village, including ghostly coaches and horses that can be seen roaming the streets of the village, the ghost of a woman who drowned in a stream outside the village, both ‘white’ and ‘red’ women who haunt the churchyard of St Nicholas Church in the center of the village, and a small white dog that somewhat resembles Tintin. snowy Who can also be seen roaming among the graves. All this, combined with the ghosts of the gallows, the crushing of clay at the local brickyards and the violent murder of a highwayman, makes for a very macabre and frightening setting.
The haunted center is called the village pub, The Black Horse. With a building dating back to 1420, it makes sense that it’s an attraction for ghost hunters from around the world. When I visited, it looked like a bustling country pub on a Sunday afternoon, packed with customers who had come for a glass and something to eat. But I wanted to know more. Andy, the landlord, kindly accompanied me and showed me up to the attic, said to be one of the most haunted places in the pub. Since I, Andy and my partner were sitting in the dark, the only foreboding feeling I had was how I would descend the very rickety stairs. He assured me it was more ‘scary’ at night, but since we were still sitting in the dark, I didn’t need much convincing. I needed to go on a late autumn afternoon to see what else I could find.
Next to the pub is the nine hundred year old St Nicholas Church. It is a beautifully preserved Grade One listed building surrounded by a churchyard planted with oak, beech and sycamore trees planted among the ancient yews as well as graves. This is where I heard screams. I walked through the lych-gate, through the village apple orchard and through a large enclosure, where I found the source of the raucous sounds – it was a group of friends playing a very animated game of football on the village green. In fact there did not seem to be anything sinister about this delightful village. In fact, it was the location of the exceedingly terrifying TV classic “The Darling Buds of May”, the book’s author, HE Bates, lived on the outskirts of the village, so you definitely feel more ‘perky’ than scared.
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But I couldn’t leave the area without visiting Deering Woods, known in folklore as “The Screaming Woods”, which lies between the villages of Smardon and Pluckley. Stories from this woodland include frightening disappearances and terrifying screams that can be heard in the middle of the night. I’m not crazy, so I decided to opt for a slightly hazy afternoon walk instead of a midnight wander. I was warned that I would see shadows moving across the pristine landscape even during the day, but I can assure you, I did not. Instead I took a wonderfully relaxing walk in an area that has been continuously wooded since the early medieval period, and is even mentioned in the Domesday Book. It is composed mainly of oak and hornbeam as well as grasses and ferns. I think you’re more likely to get a rare sighting of a hazel dormouse or a swooping brown long-eared bat than you are to see a ghost.
This corner of Kent feels little changed over the decades, with charming villages, deep country lanes, surrounded by rolling fields, hop gardens and apple orchards. It is home to some amazing places to visit, including magnificent leeds castleWhich was built in the 13th century only for weekend relaxation. Staying overnight, as I did, gives you private access to the grounds (as well as the castle during the early hours) away from the daytime crowds, which I took full advantage of. I think this is where I feel the presence of ghosts the most, but not the kind that scares you. Taking an early morning walk alone through the vast parkland, watching the mist rise over the moat, you might imagine suddenly meeting Charlie Chaplin or a young JFK after a weekend of champagne-filled parties at Lady Bailey’s at the castle. Now these are ghosts I can definitely believe in.
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how to get there
Southeastern Trains runs frequent services to and from Bearsted, taking just over an hour from London, and around the same driving time.
Where to stay and visit
You’ll find a range of charming accommodation including comfortable rooms in the stable block of Leeds Castle, as well as sophisticated lakeside lodges. The stay includes access to the grounds and palace.
Pluckley is surrounded by some amazing sites so why not visit:
leeds castle: A spectacular parkland and castle complete with a maze and adventure playground
Sissinghurst Castle Gardens: a National Trust property with excellent gardens
Westvale Vineyards: One of Kent’s best vineyards with a warm welcome and excellent tastings, tours and events.
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