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wWe are sitting in a small boat, tossing on the swell of the Southern Ocean, when we get a signal. Six of us donned our goggles and snorkels and walked over to the side of the boat and waded into the water, still feeling cold despite our 5mm wetsuits. The captain points to the edge of the bay and we look at them – about half a dozen dolphin fins heading towards us.
There may have been few things to lure me to the Southern Ocean before this trip, which certainly brings the word “shark” to mind for most non-Australians, but this is one of them. It is the culmination of a five-night journey through a region of spectacular scenery, exciting wildlife experiences And excellent seafood too – often with barely another person in sight.
South Australia It may be one of the less visited states in the country – New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria and WA all have more tourists – and those who come to Adelaide are probably more likely to visit He’s got a wine tour on his mind In the stunning valleys that surround the city. But across Spencer Gulf and Gulf St Vincent lies the Eyre Peninsula, certainly one of the country’s hidden gems with over 2,000 km of coastline, much of it stunning and pristine.
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Our journey begins in Port Lincoln on the peninsula east coastA seven-hour drive from the state capital Adelaide but only 50 minutes by plane across the water. The area was mapped in 1802 by British explorer Matthew Flinders, who named landmarks after his Lincolnshire birthplace – hence “Port Lincoln”, as well as Boston Island and Donington Point. Today the city proclaims itself the Seafood Capital of Australia, and for good reason as it is also home to the Southern Hemisphere’s largest fishing fleet. As we explore the town on mountain e-bikes, we can see dark circles of tuna rings in the bay, while a fleet of trawlers used to “shrimp” fill the marina. (It seems that despite the phrase “throw another prawn on the barbie”, Australians are actually more likely to say “prawn”.)
While Flinders placed the region on western maps, its Aboriginal history certainly extends much further back. Through Untamed Escapes we take a cultural tour with Emmaline Richards, a member of the local Barngarla people of the area, who know it as “Gallinyala”. We meet him at the place where the European settlers arrived. Initially they believed that the white visitors were the spirits of their ancestors, and that they helped the first settlers find fresh water. Emmaline shows us sites sacred to her people, but also the dark side of local history as for thousands of years the indigenous people were exploited and deprived of the land that was theirs.
We stay in the Deco Beach Apartments, spacious Art Deco-style residences overlooking the bay, and there’s plenty to see in town, including L’Anse, a French bakery with the best croissants in the state, a tap room for Jump Ship Brewing, whose beers were served to us throughout the area, and Tikal and Boston Bay wineries.
But there are plenty of untouched sights to see beyond the city. We head to Lincoln National Park with Australian Coastal Safaris, who also provided our e-bikes, and our guide, Doug, who takes us first to West Wana Point, where we view miles of untouched sand. It is a famous beauty spot – Doug recently hosted Robert Irwin, son of “crocodile hunter” Steve, who was filming a Tourism Australia advertisement in the dunes. But despite this, he says, on some beaches you can go for a walk, return a week later and your footprints can still be seen.
From this location you can often see southern right whales as they make their way from Antarctica to warmer climates, but our chances of seeing were ruined by the choppy seas. Instead, after some 4×4 offroading in the dunes, we head to Mikkara Lodge, famous for offering the chance to get up close to koalas in the wild.
Koalas are common in the forests of Australia – as are kangaroos, and both are in Mikkara – but they are usually found in eucalyptus trees tens of meters above the ground. In Mikkara, influenced by strong winds coming in from the sea, trees have adapted and become much smaller, meaning there is a chance of coming face to face with a koala at eye level.
With wildlife first on our list, we head into the wilderness, driving south-west to stay at the Greenlee Carriage, a train carriage that has been restored into an off-grid cabin, with stunning views of the seaside countryside. As the sun sets, we light a fire and, without any light pollution, can marvel at the galaxy above.
Our next stop is near Coffin Bay, for an oyster farm tour, aboard a flat-bottomed boat sailing 18km into the shallow, pristine blue waters of the bay. We’re told that oysters here sell for 12AUD per dozen (about £6), but if you order in a restaurant in Sydney or Brisbane, Coffin Bay oysters in a restaurant can set you back north of 12AUD, and they even deliver by air to Germany.
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We arrive at rows of wooden poles with shells suspended on ropes between them, and are given waders to walk among the lines of shells in waist-high water and get a closer look at them. When our boat returns and after seeing seals and dolphins along the way we are served a dozen mussels, fresh from the bay, with a slice of lemon.
Finally we headed to Baird Bay, a small fishing village a few hours from the coast. We arrive via the beach, pelicans wait to move out of our way as we park the car, the sparkling water with sand flows into the Southern Ocean.
Opening onto the sand are two luxurious villas – one three-bed and one four-bed – that open onto the beach, with a swimming pool in the middle. They are equipped for self-catering, but meals can be added by the fireside or in the restaurant. After unpacking we are ushered down to the beach where a fire has been lit and we drink cocktails and eat oysters as the sun sets, before dining on the beach by the firelight.
However, the main reason for coming to the Baird Bay Experience comes the next day: the chance to swim with sea lions and dolphins in the wild. We set off in the morning on the experience, which can be booked separately, taking a short trip by boat to Jones Island, the natural habitat of sea lions. As we make our way through the chest-high water, staying as low as possible, they spot us and several young sea lions come out to swim and play among us, while others watch from land. Then we head across the bay to where the dolphins might be. Once they are spotted we are in the water and they move quickly back and forth and overtake us at some distance. The entire thrilling experience is captured on waterproof GoPro cameras we can borrow and download our footage later.
Safely back on the boat, we head back to Baird Bay for lunch, local fish with oysters and triple-cooked chips, then a stroll along the immaculate beach – still not another tourist in sight.
how to get there
Several major airlines fly to Adelaide, including British Airlines, Emirates and Qatar. From here, take a 50-minute flight to Port Lincoln on Qantas or Rex Airlines.
where to stay
stay in Deco Beach Apartment Off the coast of Port Lincoln.
book it green car In Kolta.
stay on Baird Bay Experience Book a night or sea lion experiences separately from 450AUD.
Michael was traveling as a guest South Australia Tourism Commission.
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