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I hiked South Devon’s peaceful new walking route – with the people who built it

KANIKA SINGH RATHORE, 27/11/202527/11/2025

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I‘m walking through the woods To my right, column-straight coastal redwood trees stand proudly, looking as if they were planted on a grid. Old and sturdy oak, lime and beech trees grow above us on the left. Underfoot, the woodland floor is littered with fallen acorns and crisp golden brown leaves, interspersed with ancient tree roots poking intermittently out of the ground. In the distance, hidden behind the greenery of trees, is the unmistakable “chu” of a steam train whistling as it passes the tracks below.

i’m on new open South Hams Way100 mile circular walking route south devonTaking in a delightful part of the British countryside. I can’t help but remember William BlakeFamous line about walking “England“The green and pleasant land” from his poem “Jerusalem”, and thinking about how pleasant it really is, made even better with the autumn sunshine warming my face.

I’ve joined the South Hams Ramblers group at their official opening ceremony of the trail on 11 October, on the first section from Totnes to Buckfastleigh, a moderate distance of 7.1 miles along footpaths, country lanes, fields and woodlands. The entire concept took over a year to complete, although the opening event was delayed by a month due to amber weather warnings.

Henley Davies and Debbie Board, members of the South Hams Ramblers group who were integral in creating the route, in the meadow after lunch

Henley Davies and Debbie Board, members of the South Hams Ramblers group who were integral in creating the route, in the meadow after lunch ,Emma Henderson/The Independent,

Before the walk, the path is officially opened with a ceremony in Totnes Borough Park, where the path begins. “It’s very English, isn’t it?” My Scottish husband, Hugh, tells me just as the local councilor cuts the ribbon and proudly announces that the trail is open to all. All around us, there are at least 120 enthusiastic walkers, dressed in waterproof outerwear, walking shoesTrekking poles and backpack, ready to hit the trail. Many of them have been involved in its creation and testing, so have actually finished most, if not all, of it already. A couple from Canada, avid bikers and walkers, who are on a two-month trip to the UK, saw the opening walk event online and decided to join in.

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It was here in the crowd that I noticed someone’s walking backpack, which had at least 11 stitched badges (that I could see) of various trails, from the 109-mile Cleveland Way, through North Yorkshire National Park, to the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path along southern Wales. I didn’t appreciate that there were so many Recognized walking routes in the UKMy knowledge was limited to the South West Coast Path, which is Britain’s longest path at 630 miles, and a few others across the country, such as the Pennine Way, which stretches 255 miles from Derbyshire to the Scottish border; Hadrian’s Wall Path at 84 miles; and the 185-mile Thames Path,

However, what is special about the South Hams Trail is not only the scenery, but that it has been designed for walkers by walkers (South Hams Ramblers Group). They created guides and a website and placed 850 waymarkers, all as volunteers. The path is divided into 10 bite-sized sections, starting in Totnes, going counter-clockwise to Dartmoor, then heading south for 50 miles. south devon Coast path around Salcombe and Dartmouth, and back into Totnes. The path uses existing paths, which it links together, and covers five neighbourhoods.

Read more: Want the whole Lake District to yourself? walk the cumbria route

The South Hams Way is made up of existing South Devon paths joined together to form a new route

The South Hams Way is made up of existing South Devon paths joined together to form a new route ,Emma Henderson/The Independent,

The intention is to showcase what South Devon has to offer and to inspire more people to visit – A tonic for both physical and mental health“We wanted to create another trail that people would want to walk on for the holidays,” explains Debbie Board, the group’s walk coordinator, who has been instrumental in creating the new trail, “We know it will attract a lot of retirees, people on vacation and younger people who might want to do it quickly,” she says, Going faster, it can be completed in six or seven days (or even less), while going more leisurely it takes about 10 days,

She adds, “This walk includes a variety of landscapes – coast paths, moorland, river valleys and rural areas – which sets it apart from other walks.” We get a taste of this in the first section of the solo walk.

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John Lloyd, who is also part of the South Hams Ramblers group and creator of the trail’s website, says it is run in a way that allows people to really get to know an area. “I thought I knew this place like the back of my hand,” he says, adding that he has been visiting the area since the seventies and has lived here for the last 30 years. “But actually I didn’t. It’s not until you start walking on it that you realize there’s more to see.”

The circular path is divided into 10 bite-sized sections, starting and ending in Totnes

The circular path is divided into 10 bite-sized sections, starting and ending in Totnes ,Emma Henderson/The Independent,

Read more: This beautiful walkway inspired England’s most famous painting

The longest of the 10 sections is the final section, Dartmouth to Totnes, 13.4 miles – almost twice the length of the first section. Then at number four is Ivybridge to Nos Mayo, a distance of 11.9 miles. “My favorite is number three, which goes up to Ugborough Beacon on Dartmoor. It’s also the hardest because it’s quite steep,” says Debbie.

We start on footpaths, passing the River Dart, and up to the Dartington Estate, which covers 800 acres, including a large 14th-century medieval house with Grade II listed gardens.

After a very quick coffee, we are soon inside a gorgeous looking deer park, where many beautiful animals are grazing together in small groups. Above it is a tall and centuries-old wobbly gray stone wall, and ancient trees stand proudly along the way. We cross the steam train tracks at Staverton and get our first glimpse of the historic South Devon Railway, with a small ticket office decorated with historic signs advertising cigarettes, Fry’s chocolate and Colman’s starch.

A large part of this first section of the path follows the River Dart

A large part of this first section of the path follows the River Dart ,Emma Henderson/The Independent,

The Ramblers Association has a strong social side, and everyone is eager to chat to new faces. I can see why some people are being advised to join walking groups, not only for the fresh air and exercise, but also as an antidote to loneliness.

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Lunch is a quick stop in a meadow, and everyone comes prepared with their own packed lunch (very-British). The sun comes out as we sit on our jackets for a short rest.

Debbie says the South Hams Ramblers group has already got plans for their next project: a route between Salcombe in the south through the Avon Valley to South Brent in the north, which will be named the North South Link. “Then we’ll work on it once we catch our breath,” she says with a laugh.

The trail winds along country lanes through rolling hills lush with vegetables grown by Riverford Organic, before descending through a steep farm, over a slope and back into the woods, finding the River Dart again.

Read more: I learned wild camping in Dartmoor

Emma boarding the steam train from Buckfastleigh back to Totnes

Emma boarding the steam train from Buckfastleigh back to Totnes ,Emma Henderson/The Independent,

It’s 3pm when we reach our final destination of Buckfastleigh, having taken just under four hours on foot (including half an hour for lunch). The town is best known as the home of the eponymous drink, Buckfast (or Buckie), originally produced by monks at the Abbey and famous among many in Scotland for its high ABV, caffeine content and relatively low prices. Tonic wine is rarely drunk elsewhere.

At the finish line, walkers gather at the Birdie Café for cream teas, which are so popular that they quickly run out.

To get back to Totnes, there is the 88 bus, which runs every hour, or you can hail a taxi. But the steam train is the most beautiful and fun option. The entire station is decorated with vintage 1950s signs and various shades of beige, cream and caramel.

The exterior of the carriage is butter yellow with burgundy trim, and it also has a dining carriage. Inside there are tartan-covered wooden bench seats with high backs and red tables. I wish train coaches still looked like this instead of the modern sober gray schemes. We head back towards Totnes, stopping often for no apparent reason, giving us time to enjoy the views and the sheep wandering in the fields next to the tracks.

At home, it hasn’t been long since I’ve been watching walking groups in my local area, inspired by John’s sentiment that the only way to really know a place is to walk in it. Like Blake, I would roam more in the green and pleasant lands of England.

Read more: This new walking route is the best way to see the Lake District without a car

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