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IIn 2017, we came home from a terrible camping trip in Somerset with our kids, thinking we’d never go on holiday again. We were sad and somewhat defeated due to recession and stress.
That night, we were reminded of the holidays we had spent when we were just a couple, like the fortnight we spent in a white-washed cottage in Culatra. Portuguese Island in the Ria Formosa lagoon. As we looked at each other, I slowly wondered if it would be possible to return Family,
New places can be anxiety-inducing for anyone, but for neurodiverse children, the prospect can be truly hellish. My son, Thomas has autism spectrum disorder (ASD), dyspraxia and learning needs, while Harry has adhd,
We had never considered the idea of going abroad as a family. Dealing with security queues, coach transfers, different time zones, no space around the pool and cramped apartments always seemed like a challenge.
but rhea formosa Islands – Baretta, Fusetta, Armona, Culatra and Farrol – are special, and we thought it might be almost possible to travel together.
Crucially, they are car-free, and commercialization is minimal. In 1987, the Portuguese government designated the tidal lagoon a national park to protect its unique biodiversity. This means that human intervention has been minor: while people have reportedly lived on the remote peninsula for thousands of years, development has been limited.
Fishing boats dock at the ports of Fuseta as the traditional industry remains. But there are no built-up hotels or busy cities. This is a place to appreciate the seasons rather than squeeze them for their commercial potential.
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Each island is surrounded by vast, tranquil beaches and most of the properties are second homes for Portuguese families. Can we afford to take the boys there? Maybe Easter week: not too busy, not too hot? Was it at least worth a try? Yes, we decided, it was.
Planning was key. We wanted to create something as close to home as possible, so we rented a bungalow (one bedroom each for the boys, because sharing is a nightmare) with a kitchen, TV, and WiFi.
In such homes, we had a meal planner in the kitchen, kept to a consistent daily routine, and the boys could use their electronics for games and to keep in touch with peers. Portugal is in the same time zone as the UK, meaning there’s no confusing adjustment period.
Incredibly, it worked that Easter – so we went back the next year, and the next, and the next. And we returned again this summer.
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Many tourists stay in Faro or Olhão on the mainland, and visit the lagoon every day. However, it is important for us to stay on Kulatra. This way, we can access the beach in the morning and evening when there is no one else there.
We usually leave the house at 8.30 in the morning, and Thomas usually complains all the way to the sea. He hates dilapidated boardwalks, he hates other people (like an elderly couple happily giving gifts).Good morning!“) And he hates sand. We can just sympathize and encourage him to go with us.
Before hoisting the umbrella over the almost empty beach, his sandals came off and he was in the sea. His great sensory passion is water, and during low tide he spends about an hour splashing about in the water, falling and finding shells. This means that he will be very quiet for the rest of the day.
Harry is cooler. He’ll chat for a while, dig some holes in the sand, then grab his snorkel to search for sea creatures.
After about two hours, the beach begins to fill up. This is our signal to leave.
We usually have an ice cream, go to a mini-market, buy fresh fish to barbecue at lunchtime and, in the afternoon, let the boys rest in their bedrooms. Harry likes to create stop-motion animations, while Thomas watches online videos.
The ability to reflect on our normal domestic life means that, when challenges arise, they can be met calmly and pragmatically in our own space.
Yes, unlike traditional package holidays, there’s not much to do, and the slower pace won’t be for everyone – but it works for us.
The islands’ extraordinary natural beauty means that at a slower pace we go foraging, looking for bats at dusk, looking for house lizards after dinner and, with very little light pollution, stargazing at night.
It’s this peace and quiet that sets the boys up – and of course, us too – for the year ahead. And next summer, we’ll be back again, ready for the respite offered by Ria Formosa.
how to go
July and August are hot and busy, so it is best to avoid them. Easter temperatures are a respectable 16 to 20 degrees Celsius, although there is a chance of rain. If you’re not tied to school holidays, June and September are beautiful and certainly cheap.
getting there
Several airlines fly to Faro, so prices vary greatly, especially around school holidays.
Return flights in August cost around £2,000 jet2 For a family of four. Apart from school holidays this can be halved. We use Jet2 because their disabled assistance is excellent, as are the ground staff at Faro Airport.
Taxis to Olhão take about 20-25 minutes and cost €25 (£22). The ferry fare from Olhão to Culatra is €4.10 (£3.50) for adults and €2 (£1.75) for children under 10.
where to stay
Orbitur Holiday Camp on Armona offers compact cabins from €250 (£220) per night. book here,