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“Would you like some music?” Gianluca asked with a twinkle in his eyes. he was a very charming captain GhibliOur elegant peppermint leather-upholstered boat that exudes Riviera chic. We were halfway through a dreamy tour around the South End lake gardaAfter passing Jamaica Beach and the Grotto of Catullus, the remains of a Roman fort at the tip of the peninsula, we were now approaching Scaliger Castle of SirmioneA fortress built by the Della Scala family of Venice in the late 14th century. While you can reach it by land through the gates of the historic city of Sirmione, it’s also a spectacular sight from the water. It was just us who marveled at the architectural engineering, along with a handful of cormorants perched on Venice’s wooden “bricole” mooring posts.
Reaching for the dials on the boat’s chrome and walnut dashboard, Gianluca gave an enthusiastic presentation. Nesen DormaOf course, sung by maestro Pavarotti. Somehow, none of us hesitated as the notes floated in the diamond-encrusted waters in the long afternoon sun. after all we were living Sweet life.
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Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lakeSits in the center of a triangle of three regions: Veneto, Trentino and Lombardy. A walk around the lake on that sunny Thursday evening gave me the best opportunity to understand the unique landscape that has had such an impact on the lake. wines of this regionI was on an intense experience discovering the wines of Lugana DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, an Italian certification of wine indicating a guarantee of quality). Lugana’s wine region lies across both Veneto and Lombardy, and is often overshadowed by its more famous wine neighbors Soave and Valpolicella. But, like all cool people, he really has something very special to say.
you will get vineyards At the southern end of the lake. While height and altitude often characterize quality, here on the lowlands around Lake Garda The beauty of wine comes through a different story. The unique soil of this area is the result of a massive glacier that carved its way through the Brenta Dolomites, cutting the valley. As this glacier advanced, it deposited magnesium-rich limestone, which was then deposited as moraines at the edges of the ice. The glacier melted, creating Lake Garda, leaving behind rich, fertile soil. There is also a unique microclimate on the lake; Olives and lemons are grown in abundance here, the temperate breezes coming from the lake create conditions that allow long ripening times for the grapes.
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Lugana produces exclusively white wines from indigenous Turbian Grapes – a versatile variety related to VerdicchioWith excellent acidity, making it incredibly flexible for creating a range of different styles. My first taste of this breadth of possibilities was a glass Classic Method 36 months At La Morette Winery, a traditional method sparkling wine (made in the same way as Champagne and Crémans). This is a gorgeous sustainable wine with mouth-watering aromas of almond croissant and orange blossom, full of vibrant acidity – a characteristic that was at the core of everything I tasted.
These are wines that uplift and energize you. They have tension and energy, whether you’re enjoying an easy entry level Lugana DOC, which has all the vitality of recent vintages but with the assurance of quality, or something that is older and more decadent such as better Or Classico. Even limited production late harvest (late ripening dessert wine) gives you a wonderful mouth-watering finish, as I discovered when tasting at Cantina Perla del Garda. I felt like I had discovered an amazing wine secret, and it was all so easily accessible from the shores of Lake Garda.
I was staying in the bustling town of Desenzano del Garda on the south-western shore of the lake, its waterfront location offering sweeping views of the water, as well. snow covered mountains of dolomites In the far distance. The city is centered around Piazza Malvezzi and the ancient port with grand 16th-century palaces designed by the Brescian architect Todeschini. Ochre, sky blue and butter-yellow buildings provide the backdrop of a city that is full of life even out of season on a Wednesday evening. Families, young and old, were enjoying their passeggiata, and restaurants were buzzing with people coming together for good food and, of course, fine wines.
We enjoyed an evening of fine dining at MOS, run by the extremely talented Stefano Zinni, who has revived an old trattoria located near the marina. Her beautiful cooking plates included Tench Risotto Tench caught straight from the lake pairs wonderfully with Lugana’s food-friendly wines.
The welcome of winemakers is often unique ItalyAnd here was no exception. From the farmhouse tasting room of brother and sister duo Alessandro and Laura’s winemaking in Marangona, to the warmth of father and son at jaw-dropping Cantina Otella. Despite the high gloss of the winery (it well has a Bond villain’s lair about it), you feel the connection of the youngest generation with the people who deeply established Lugana as a region in the 1960s. Combining pride in heritage and vision for the future, there is a spirit among the talented producers of this stunning region that is as energetic as the wines.
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where to go
Otella Cellar: Probably one of the most fascinating wineries I’ve visited, not for its gorgeous architecture or landscape, but for the intense experience at the winery. Here, the family ethos is that art, beauty and wine are intrinsically linked, and woven seamlessly into the fabric of the building. You’ll find not only a portfolio of beautiful wines, but also a stunning collection of sculptures and paintings that are as much a part of the winery as the equipment and barrels that sit with them. Winery tours are available as well as tastings in their spacious and beautiful shop and tasting room.
to be quoted: A visit to this tranquil vineyard should begin with climbing the tower San Martino Della BattagliaAn impressive monument to the Battle of Solferino, whose tragedy led to the unification of Italy and the birth of the Red Cross. Don’t like the steps? Don’t worry, you climb inside the tower via a gentle ramp that depicts the plight of soldiers on both sides of the war. The views from the top are expansive, and not just because of the climb.
From there, take a short walk to Cantina Citari, and enjoy one of their easily bookable wine experiences. This is a relaxing place to enjoy the hospitality and elegant, expressive wines of this third-generation winery. If you’re feeling irritable, why not time your visit with a meal Agriturismo Ortaglia by Marotti DanielaA simple restaurant preparing excellent homemade pasta. From Desenzano del Garda Citari can be easily reached by car (15 minutes) or bus (30 minutes).
pearl of garda: A family-run estate that has revitalized wine production in its corner of the Lugana DOC and is producing some remarkable wines that extend the full spectrum of Lugana’s capabilities. Sparkling wines, made by hand using the traditional method, show great complexity and are truly worthy of aging. Wine tours and tastings can be booked and enjoyed all year round.
how to get there
Airlines including British Airways, easyJet and Jet2 operate daily flights from Bergamo to Milan or Verona. There is a regular train from Verona to Desenzano del Garda, Sirmione and Peschiera del Garda, all of which are good places to stay to explore the vineyards. Car hire starts from £17 per day.
Rosamund traveled with support Lugana Consortium.
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