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Aafter years of searching The world’s best beginner surf spotsHawaii’s Sunset Beach to Polzeath on Oahu cornwallI certainly wasn’t expecting one of the best surf sessions of my life in Atlantic waters off the coast guernsey,
This self-governing crown dependency wears its Britishness on its sleeve. The road signs and rural lanes lined with pastel-painted houses certainly seem familiar, but if you stand still for even a moment and breathe in the place, it suddenly feels very different. The plants, wildlife and scenery have a semi-tropical vibe. Even the air feels soft and warm, reminding me that while Guernsey is 70 miles off the south coast of England, it is only 30 miles from Normandy. Despite being only nine miles long and three miles wide, this island has a lot to offer long sandy beachSecluded rocky coves and dramatic sea cliffs to explore.
It’s perfectly possible to surf the Atlantic waves or sunbathe on the wide-open sands of Vazon Bay on the lower west coast, then hop on an e-bike and cross the island to the 90-metre-high craggy cliffs and “Pirate’s Cove” of Petit Bot. paddleboarding adventure,
Living on such a small island made me feel deeply connected to the ocean. And because the water was so clean and clear, as if glowing with turquoise light underwater, it always looked attractive. as soon as i woke up in my room Peninsula HotelI’ll be feeling the itch to take the plunge. Fortunately, the Hotel Rousse is just down the road from the Battery, and its long pier, built into the bay with large stone blocks, provides the ideal platform for swimming before breakfast. I grabbed a mask and snorkel and spent 45 minutes exploring among the sunken rocks. Seagrass swayed in the current and as I swam upstream I was delighted to see the multicolored scales of a large rainbow trout, whose iridescent bands of purple, orange and turquoise made it look more like an escapee from a tropical aquarium than a fish in British waters.
There are plenty of viewpoints around Guernsey’s coast, often aligned with defensive fortifications built centuries ago, and then inspired by the bunker-building spree launched by Nazi forces in World War II; In fact, 2025 marks the 80th anniversary of the island’s liberation. Some of the most recognizable forts are the circular and distinctively utilitarian Guernsey Loophole Towers, constructed between 1778 and 1799 to deter a possible invasion by the French. 12 of the 15 built are still standing and with their distinct, uniform designs, they look surprisingly modern. These sites are combined with a well-established and maintained network of footpaths, some of which form the continuous Guernsey Coastal Path, enjoyed by walkers and strong-kneed path-runners.
Steep sections of the path around the eastern and southern coast provide access to some secluded spots. beaches Otherwise you can reach there only by boat. Later, as I climbed over these same high, craggy cliffs, I stopped in my tracks as wisps of mist flew away and the sea a hundred meters below suddenly burned Caribbean blue as it gently hit a blazing crescent of white sand.
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It’s no wonder that Pierre-Auguste Renoir presented some of his greatest works here during the summer holidays in 1883. It is commemorated by the Renoir Walk in the Moulin Huet Valley, which follows the painter’s footsteps and consists of five empty picture frames. These are placed in the exact same locations where Renoir composed his works, and allow you to line up the scenes he painted of Moulin Huet Bay and the crooked pea patch within the frame. It’s a nice idea, but most of the people I saw on the trail were just taking beach selfies and putting their faces in it for the sake of 21st century artistic creation.
It was early evening when I met Nick Hall, infectiously enthusiastic surf instructor and manager of Guernsey Surf School, which operates in Wauseon Bay. The surf shack is overlooked by one of the isolated 18th-century towers I had seen from a distance. After changing into my wetsuit (the water isn’t too cold but you need a suit to surf) I headed out to the Atlantic Ocean. The waves were in the 2 foot range, very clean, and the wave lag made them relatively easy to catch.
Guernsey has a surprisingly well-established surf culture, and this beach holiday is considered one of the best on the island, especially for learning to surf. There are no rocks, the locals are friendly and the line-up isn’t too crowded. As Nick explained, many of the surfers here are beginners or advanced, working hard on the basics and enjoying the gentle conditions of a very accessible beach break.
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A quick paddle beyond the breaking waves gave me a moment to sit on my surfboard and enjoy the view. The gentle arc of the bay shelters the white sands of the beach, protected by the outstretched arm of the headland, and flanked on the east by Fort Homet.
This scene was unlike any I had seen before surfing beach; A mix of white tropical sand, age-old fortresses amidst the bush, crystal-clear sea waters and Atlantic breakers sent straight from the open sea. I got to my feet and rode a long, flowing line of green, followed by white waves, almost all the way to the beach. My smile widened until I let out an involuntary scream of pure joy.
Later, with sea salt in my hair, I enjoyed a proper pint of crisp dry, sparkling local cider, Roquette, in the Rockmount pub as I watched the last pink glimpse of the sun sink into the sea. That first sip briefly took me back to a family road trip through the gates of Normandy and the ripening apple orchards, and reflected on why Guernsey is an island that offers a heady mix of the familiar and the exotic.
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The next morning I headed to the rocky beauty spot of Petit Bot Beach with local guide Antony Ford Parker, founder of Outdoors Guernsey, which runs paddleboarding, sea kayaking, coasteering and caving tours on the island.
On paddleboards we headed to Petit Bot beach, around the red rocks of the headland and into Portelet Bay. Antony regaled me with accounts of his discovery of “smugglers’ caves” lost within the rocks, accessible only at certain tides. Guernsey’s tidal range is one of the highest in the world at 10 metres.
Further along the coast, we arrived at a huge crack in the rock, called Les Sommeliers Cave. Swimming in it, I felt the waves lifting me up like the palm of a giant, as if the waves were disappearing from sight inside the rock like the babbling snoring of Neptune.
Later, at La Moye, Antony points out a small, insignificant-looking crack in the rocks: “If you swim through there, you come into this huge cave that is completely hidden. No one knew it was there until Solita, one of our guides, decided to swim in it and discovered it a few years ago.”
One of Guernsey’s most famous landmarks, the Pea Stacks, are a series of rock towers jutting into the sea. At the right tide, you can thrill in a maze of huge, pressure-transformed granite platforms, pools and moats. That’s how I found myself once again in a wetsuit, this time with a helmet and buoyancy aid, to experience the beach with Alfie from Outdoor Guernsey.
I was led through a wonderful world of seaweed-covered stones, squeezing between slabs of rough pink stone and making nervous jumps from high boulders into deep rocky ponds thick with swaying kelp. Coasteering was a way to explore these otherwise impenetrable towers of stone that really brought the sheer proportions of this adventure island to life.
By the time I emerged from that amphibious environment, and climbed over the rocks to rejoin the coastal path, I felt like a changed person, as if I had connected with the landscape and myself on a primal level. I was able to appreciate this beautiful rugged coastline in a completely different way.
Even as I struggled to get out of my wetsuit in the car park, I almost felt sorry for the tourists perched on top of the cliffs around Jerburg Point, bearing witness to the spectacular panorama, but on some basic level never quite being able to reach out and touch it.
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how to get there
I flew into London City Airport on Guernsey’s own airline, AurignyWhich also flies direct from London Gatwick and regional airports. brittany pier A high-speed car ferry runs from Poole and Portsmouth, taking three hours.
getting around
Guernsey is a small island that is easily explored by rental car, although you can also get around on an e-bike (or regular bike) with Go Guernsey.
where to eat
There is no shortage of seaside dining options in Guernsey. A popular pub dinner is Puffin and Oysters, where I found a surprisingly satisfying beer-battered haddock and chips. For the hustle and bustle of the city’s restaurants, visit The Slaughterhouse in Guernsey’s capital, St Peter Port. Here you will find high quality steaks and grilled seafood, which can be enjoyed on the high terrace overlooking Hewlett Bay. And the island’s interior is no slouch – I had a sumptuous lunch of locally caught, fried sea bass and steamed green vegetables at Les Douvres, a rustic 18th-century former manor house. For light, post-surf snacks and burgers, Vistas Café is perfectly located overlooking the surf spots of Wazeon Bay.
where to stay
The Peninsula Hotel
This seaside hotel features large, comfortable suites and views of the traditional fishing boats moored at Grand Havre Bay. It is conveniently located to access the wide open south coast beaches, with a private outdoor pool for bathing and enjoying the cool sunshine.
Carlton Inn
A good budget option is the two-star Carlton Inn with en-suite rooms in the country lanes of St Martin’s, which also has a Wicked Wolf pub which serves food from 5.30pm.
Matt’s trip was hosted by Visit Guernsey and Partners.
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