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SStepping aboard the catamaran into Hydra’s ancient port feels like entering a living painting – an island caught between myth and reality. Mediterranean Daydream. Unlike high-energy people santorini or MykonosHydra is calm, thoughtful, and blissfully car-free. On this small island, athensDonkeys carry tourists’ luggage, fishermen sit on the dockside mending their nets, and the island’s soundtrack features the gentle lapping of water and the rhythmic pounding of horse hooves. This Saronic gem showcases the charm of the Cyclades without the chaos and crowds.
Even on my fourth visit, Hydra was still waving her wand. I think I will never tire of her hidden coves, the white alleys that lead to bougainvillea-lit courtyards, and the proud neoclassical mansions that bear witness to the island’s naval history.
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Hydra’s magic is both aesthetic and visceral. The protective order prohibits motor vehicles – only ambulances, fire trucks and garbage trucks are allowed. There are no motorcycles either. All goods, from groceries to building materials to household goods, were transported by donkeys and mules.
This island is not only quaint but also full of charm. This is transformative. Hydra has the largest herd of working horses in the world, and without engines, life gets softer. Animals are laid-back, people are unhurried. Even the cats — and Hydra is full of them — are docile, happy to wander in for a scratch rather than flush away.
There is no traffic noise and tranquility seeps into your soul. I found myself breathing deeper and moving slower, absorbing Hydra’s rare, undisturbed energy.
Artists have long been drawn to its shores, from Leonard Cohen to Jeff Koons, who lived here. Durst Foundation Project Space Slaughterhouse Enter the sunny Temple of Apollo. This avant-garde seasonal arts venue sits on the sea and is topped by a giant bronze and copper alloy sun.
For a more traditional side of history, visit Historical Archives Hydra near the port. Inside its beautiful neoclassical mansion, I admired naval paintings and intricate ship models, and pored over handwritten letters recounting Hydra’s vital role in the Greek War of Independence.
While the port’s charm is undeniable, Hydra invites you to explore further. You can ride horses through olive groves and historic churches – there are more than 300 churches dotted around the island. You can also rent a boat to circle the island and explore secluded beaches only accessible by sea, or cross over to nearby Docos Island to dive among ancient shipwrecks and underwater cliffs.
For a true taste of island life, try a traditional fishing experience on a wooden boat sailboat It is run by local fishermen whose families have worked these waters for generations.
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With Greek islands like Santorini and Mykonos experiencing a renewed tourist boom, Hydra offers a compelling alternative. No airport chaos, hours-long ferry rides, or scrambling for the perfect sunset. The whole ferry is very expensive GreeceThe 75-minute catamaran trip from Athens to Hydra is no exception, with prices starting from €60 (£50) return. But when you come here, it feels both well-preserved and vibrant, both chic and authentic.
Whether you’re swimming beneath ancient cliffs, sipping wine on a sand-strewn terrace, exploring a bold art installation, or simply watching the sunset on the harbor, Hydra allows you to slow down, breathe deeply and stay longer.
Yes, Mykonos has lively beach clubs and Santorini has its famous sunsets – but Hydra has soul. This was the Greek island escape I was after.
how to do
Where to stay
five star Mandrake Beach Resort (from €280 per night) Situated on Hydra’s only sandy beach. This former 19th-century shipyard is located in Mandraki Bay, a 10-minute water taxi ride from the harbor, with transfers available until 11pm. This former 19th-century shipyard has been redesigned into a unique resort with just 17 suites, furnished with natural materials, original stone arches and soft linens. The real deal is Captain M, the resort’s open-air restaurant, which offers seasonal dishes like cauliflower couscous salad and creamy potato sea bream that are rooted in Greek tradition and infused with interesting modern twists. As the sun set over the Peloponnese, I enjoyed my dinner with a glass of ice-cold Assyrtiko.
EasyJet flights from London Gatwick to Athens cost £50 return; 75-minute catamaran rides from Athens to Hydra start from €60 (£50) return.
Rebecca Hall was a guest at Mandraki Beach Resort.
This article was originally published on May 8, 2025 and has been updated.
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