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TeaThe universal comfort of freshly baked bread transcends all limits.
Seeking an escape from the heavy equatorial rain, I discovered a unique bakery in the Principe fishing village. Flames danced inside its large clay oven, a picturesque sight.
Luckily, my arrival coincided with the departure of the first batch of the day. Tearing apart the hot dough, I enjoyed the eternal bliss that had been enjoyed for centuries.
This simple act of breaking bread truly defines the simple joys of this remote Bay of Guinea island.
together with sao tomeThis becomes one of West AfricaSmallest nation. More laid-back and relaxing than the mainland, it resembles a Caribbean escape, with equally stunning sandy, untouched beaches.
Nevertheless, contrary to popular winter sun The destination, Principe is largely undiscovered.
There are no big chains, no advertising billboards, and only a few basic shops in the main town of Santo Antonio.
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built during Portuguese Since colonization, when the islands served as a base for trading slaves, the ruins of sugar cane and cocoa plantations have been reclaimed by jungle.
Residents have made a commendable decision to reject palm oil farming projects in favor of ecotourism under the guidance of pioneers sustainable tourism Enterprise HBD, which manages three properties on Principe and recently acquired the only other hotel in operation.
The background story of HBD (Here Be Dragons) is unusual.
Making history in 2002 by becoming the first African to enter space, entrepreneur Mark Shuttleworth had an epiphany while staring at our little blue planet. By the time he returned to Earth, he was determined to do whatever he could to protect it.
Initially, he saw Principe as a private island investment, but soon he realized that the population – the true protectors of the wild environment – would benefit from tourism. Their intention was to create employment by opening the destination to the rest of the world, without disrupting the natural beauty at its core.
Located on a remote peninsula at the northern tip of the island, the Bom Bom, a former fishing lodge, was the first hotel to open. A smart but simple collection of bungalows with two beaches for sunset and sunrise – it has since gained casual cult status.
Closed for three years since the pandemic, it has recently reopened and I am one of the first guests.
Mapped: Principal
By 6 a.m., it was already light as I walked down my empty beach. The shadows of boys in wooden pirogue boats are visible on the distant horizon.
Western reef herons forage along the shoreline, while brightly plumed malachite kingfishers add flashes of color to the tangle of emerald forest that covers much of the island. But even their gleaming turquoise fins don’t match the rich jade colors of the ocean, so clear I can see up to 15 meters to the bottom.
Although there have been several improvements at Bom Bom, including a recently opened restaurant and a beach bar in the pipeline, development is still refreshingly slow. Getting here is also a journey, which requires a flight lisbon And Sao Tome.
But distance and difficulty are partly responsible for preserving this time-frozen piece of paradise.
Here are five reasons why it’s worth a try:
1. Ancient Rainforest – In 2012, thanks partly to the efforts of HBD and the rallying of local community members, the entire island and its islets were declared a UNESCO World Biosphere. More than half of the mountainous volcanic island is a protected natural park, home to a large number of endemic species living in a 31-million-year-old rainforest.
2. Rich marine life The waters off the island are also full of marine creatures. humpback whale Can be seen between July and October, while five species of turtles – loggerhead, olive ridley, green, hawksbill and leatherback – nest on the beaches from November to March.
3. Delicious Chocolate – During the years of Portuguese rule, the cocoa industry on the island was flourishing. HBD has revived small-scale production at the heritage property Roca Sundi, a former plantation open to guests. A small shop sells food and cosmetic products.
4. Heavenly Walk – Beyond the beach, the mountainous interior is suitable for hiking. One of the most popular routes is to the top of Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak), one of several acoustic towers.
5. A model for tourism – HBD is in the process of launching a new Natural Dividend Project that will financially reward islanders for their efforts in protecting ecosystems and biodiversity. Mark Shuttleworth hopes this model can one day be replicated across Africa.
how to do it
Rainbow Tours hosted Sarah Marshall for this article.
Rainbow Tours offers a stay in Bom Bom as part of a nine-night tour of Sao Tome and Principe. From £3,550 per person (two sharing), including half-board accommodation and flights. visit rainbourtours.co.uk
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