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Catalonia’s Pyrenees are arguably one of Spain’s best-kept secrets. On the far north-eastern corner of the country, the blissful crowd-free zone stretches 250km across Catalonia, from the Val d’Aran to the Mediterranean Sea, and sets the standard for sustainable, low-impact tourism. Its diverse protected natural areas extend to 3,000 meter high mountain peaks, volcanic landscapes, wetlands and forests – all connected by more than 9,000 km of peaceful trails ready for hiking.
Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword here, it’s a way of life, and the hiking route El Cinque Llac demonstrates this responsible ethos perfectly. This signposted, five-day, 100km circular route winds through mountain passes with sweeping views of mirror-like lakes and deep, UNESCO-listed valleys. Nestled among picturesque peaks, this route offers a window into the region’s biodiversity – you may spot golden eagles above and roe deer grazing in meadows dotted with wild flowers.
Visitors are encouraged to use public transportation to reach the start of the route in La Pobla de Segur. The Tren dels Lakes (Train of the Lakes) is a heritage railway route known for its scenic route north from the city of Lleida to the foothills of the Pyrenees.
Live, eat and rest responsibly
Every aspect of a trip to El Cinque Lac (The Fifth Lake) can be done sustainably, even what’s on your plate. You’ll find plenty of mountain cuisine that’s been created by covering a few miles: expect hearty, slow-cooked dishes such as mixing bowl (a mixture of chickpeas, pasta and traditional botifara sausage in a rich broth), locally grown mushrooms, dishes such as quince paste and locally produced mountain wines.
As far as accommodation goes, a series of six rural guesthouses in charming medieval villages make welcome stopping points for hikers looking to visit sustainably, whether they’re family groups, active travelers or wellness seekers. In fact, these six enthusiastic local accommodation owners have designed the Cinque Llac route with low-impact travel in mind. A portion of the income from bookings goes directly towards maintaining the historic paths and their surroundings, while guesthouses lead conservation efforts, such as volunteer groups to restore dry stone walls. They will also pack plastic-free picnics made from local artisan ingredients for hikers.
The first guesthouse in La Pobla de Segur is the Fonda Can Facercia, a cozy boarding house with a colorful facade and mountain and lake views. From here, it’s just over six hours’ walk – through quaint mountain villages and across the Sleeping Giant Mountain, for which this first stage of the hike is named – to reach Peramea, a historic walled village and designated Cultural Property of National Interest. In Peramea, Casa Paramone awaits: the historic townhouse sleeps only 14 people and also houses a small museum with original features including stables, a wine cellar and a traditional olive press.
The second stage of the hike – named the Coven of Serraspina – takes a look at local legends, such as Serraspina Peak, where local witches were said to meet. It takes just five hours to reach the village of Beranui, which has its roots in the Bronze and Iron Ages. And after a night’s rest at Casa Macianet, a cozy four-room guesthouse, travelers can enjoy another day at a breakfast made from local honey, fruit, eggs and milk.
crossing the devil’s bridge
The Devil’s Bridge section of the walk passes over a bridge of the same name, which folklore says was built by the devil overnight, and offers views of the spectacular Val Fosca, which lies within the Origenes UNESCO Global Geopark. This six-and-a-half-hour walk ends in Les Esglices, at the foot of the untouched Llewetan Mountains; Stay at Casa Batille and Casa Mosen Batista, a guesthouse whose restaurant specializes in the flavors of the region, including locally sourced meats and mushrooms, and hot, slow-cooked Catalan broths.
Step four, continue to the Casa Encantada hike. Although the trails are tough, you’ll especially enjoy the stunning views along the way to Santarada and a night spent at the charming family-run eco-retreat, Casa Leonardo. Each of its eight rooms is uniquely rustic, with handmade tiles, wooden furnishings and colorful walls.
The fifth and final day of the walk ends at the route’s eponymous ‘fifth’ lake – the serene Montcortes Lake – and finally the medieval village of Claverol and the rustic Casa Churchill. The casa dates back to 1670 and offers views of the snow-capped peaks of the High Pyrenees, as well as creature comforts to reward your efforts as you celebrate the end of your journey, including organic toiletries and a heated pool with hydro-massage and chromo-therapy.
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