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II would like to say that I fell in love with it vegas On my first visit, but the truth is, it took me a few dice to appreciate the desert city’s subtle charms.
And somewhat ironically, my neon-lit romance flared up at the exact time other people were cashing in their chips.
It’s no secret that tourist numbers to this Nevada oasis have declined by nearly 11 percent this year, thanks to rising prices, secret resort fees and the Canadian travel boycott.
But the thing is: vegas The one that welcomes visitors today has less crowds on the Strip and a little more breathing room to explore a part of the city that often goes unnoticed: the revival of its glamorous vintage scene.
Landing in Sin City, my first stop is El Cortez Hotel and Casino on Fremont Street, which is a major player in the city’s retro renaissance. Originally opened in 1941 as the city’s first luxury hotel-casino, this high-rolling hotspot features the Jackie Gaughan Penthouse Suite.
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Once the residence of the casino owner, it is a feast for the senses: touch-me fabrics, ruched pink curtains, gold swan-shaped taps and panoramic views spanning across the city.
It feels like I’m stepping inside a fantastic time capsule, but as much as I’d like to stay longer, my next appointment is waiting across town.
As I cross the hotel’s tropical-print carpeted casino floor to meet Dafna Bar-El, owner of Dafna Beauty, the slot machines downstairs chirp happily.
The hair stylist and makeup artist moved to the city after the pandemic to launch her vintage-inspired salon and makeup brand, and quickly became a hit among brides seeking old-school glamour.
Leaning over the antique counter of her boutique, her candyfloss-pink hair perfectly reflecting the satin curtains behind her, Daphna tells me she was first attracted to her after attending the City of Lights’ annual event. long live las vegas Festival.
It is a major rockabilly event each April, where approximately 20,000 vintage enthusiasts flock to the town to sip Mai Tais by the pool and Lindy Hop into the night.
Now a proud resident, Daphna has found a community of like-minded old souls and plenty of relics from the past.
“There is a great place called Charleston Antique MallWhere you’ll find things like Spaghetti Poodle figurines and Lucite purses, which are highly collectible. And the mid-century homes in historic neighborhoods like Paradise Palms are perfectly preserved,” he enthuses.
Interest in this world has also been piqued by Dita Von Teese’s show at the Venetian Las Vegas, she says, a burlesque extravaganza scheduled to run through the summer of 2026.
Saying goodbye to Daphna and her pink palace, I wander into the nearby Arts District, a wonderful area full of nostalgia. Outside Frankie’s Tiki RoomPolynesian carved statues guard the door to a cocktail lounge where time seems to have stopped somewhere circa 1963.
The boulevard of South Main Street is bustling with $10 tattoo parlors, creating pin-up hairstyles in pastel colors Nuclear Style Lounge Salons, and every few steps another favorite clothing boutique tempt passersby to play dress-up.
party like the rat pack
After working up an appetite, I follow in the footsteps of Elvis Presley and head across town Golden Steer Steakhouse,
Opened in the late 1950s, it was once a favorite haunt of the city’s luminaries – from Marilyn Monroe to Muhammad Ali – each immortalized with a small brass plaque next to their favorite rotating booth.
Slipping into a cherry-red leather seat, I watch waiters in crisp bow ties dramatically prepare Caesar salads table-side and prepare flambe bananas foster with the showmanship of circus ringmasters.
Not surprisingly, a table here remains a hot ticket, so booking in advance is a must for a true taste of old-school Vegas decadence.
In front of a fiery sunset, I swing over the edge Neon MuseumWhere 250 restored signs salvaged from the city’s past chart Las Vegas’ journey from desert outpost to entertainment capital.
Pretty as a picture, these twinkling treasures shed stunning light on the city’s history, from its first integrated casino to its pioneering gay bar.
To end the evening, just in time for the nightThe Rat Pack is backA tribute show that has been lighting up the stage of the Tuscany Suite & Casino for over two decades.
Squint, and you can almost believe that Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr., and ol’ blue eyes, Frank Sinatra, have been reborn before your eyes – the resemblance is uncanny, from the harmonizing harmonies to the clever banter.
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There may have been a few jokes left out of the 1960s, but overall, this is as close as you’ll get to spending an evening with the original Kings of Cool.
Vintage Vegas on a Budget
A common complaint about modern Vegas is that everything here comes with a hefty price tag.
Yet the next day, I discovered that wasn’t the case at all. circus circusBig-top-themed casinos and resorts anchor the northern end of the Strip. Open since 1968, it has been providing all the fun of the fair for more than half a century.
The trapeze artists who once soared above the casino floor have sadly passed their final hours, but from Friday to Monday, live acts still light up the midway stage every half hour, all completely free to watch.
The carnival vibe continues with rotating carousel bars and kitschy fairground games like Hoopla.
Get your silver dimes ready, because Circus Circus is also home to Slots-a-Fun, a retro arcade where the slots are still coin-operated, providing a satisfying symphony of click-clink-clinks.
Right across the street, another comeback awaits Peppermill and Fireside LoungeOriginally opened in 1972, the disco-groovy interiors appear untouched and served as the backdrop to Martin Scorsese’s film, casino,
The neon-clad diner serves all-American sized portions, including a stack of pancakes that will set you up for the day for around £12.
That evening, I change rooms El Cortez Hotel and Casino To try their 2022 revival: a wing of 47 smartly renovated suites that nod to old-time Vegas.
My suite, with its luxurious sunroom with swaying palm wallpaper, leopard-print cushions and table and chairs, was once the office where notorious mobster Bugsy Siegel took care of business.
Inside, it’s clean, full of character, and with starting rates at around £75 per night, seems a surprisingly affordable way to channel a bit of man-made energy.
As night falls on Fremont Street, I realize that Vegas has always been a place of reinvention. Casinos explode in fireworks of demolition to make room for sports stadiums, all-you-can-eat buffets disappear under the weight of Michelin stars, and neon signs give way to flickering LED walls.
In this current lull, the magic of Vegas still shines, but perhaps this time it’s best discovered by looking backward rather than forward.
how to do it
Virgin Atlantic There are non-stop flights to Harry Reid International Airport from the UK. Flying time is around 11 hours and average round-trip economy fares start at around £500.
El Cortez Hotel and Casino They have historic rooms in their restored, original wing, from £75 per night.
The 15th-floor penthouse has two master bedrooms, with prices starting at £750 per night.
Zoey Goto was a guest of Visit Las Vegas and Brand USA.