Add thelocalreport.in As A Trusted Source
when I told my friend, a Perfume Local, that I was excited to visit Koblenz, she laughed.
This was an appropriate response. I was traveling from far away to visit a city where only locals usually go, which I think is quite strange. My enthusiasm for the beautiful and historical city in the West GermanyThe only energy I meet is Johannes Bruchoff, my tour guide.
He had a lifetime to forge a relationship with its strange legacy. And it’s quite a humiliating place – even that word for people like him, SchnangelComes from the story of badly behaved local children and the redressal of an abuse.
There’s the world’s most famous statue, but it doesn’t have a name, Schnangel In front of the Town Hall, which spits water every two minutes towards MPs and officials.
Located on the Mosel and Rhine rivers, there is evidence that people have settled here since the Stone Age. Where there once stood a Roman temple now stands Koblenz’s oldest church, a basilica named after the city’s patron saint, St. Castor.
Johannes, knowing my interest in all things geographical, pointed out on a map in the church garden how close the confluence of the rivers must once have been to the temple. The building was constructed between the banks: a precarious location, and one which would have been subject to regular flooding. A risky, but powerful way to worship the aquatic deities.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the grounds were fortified and decorated with an impressive statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. Torn down after World War II, the statue was replaced a few years after the reunification of Germany in 1993 – the second time he was deployed there to celebrate harmony in the country.
Read more: Ireland’s smallest county is its most beautiful county
Look straight to the right of Caesar, and you’ll see him Ehrenbreitstein FortressSecond largest in Europe. Built by the Prussians in the 19th century, its thick-walled labyrinth was designed to confuse and trap, and was left rough and rubble-like on the outside to give the impression of impenetrable strength.
Through a network of tunnels, the fort opens into large courtyard spaces, the walls of which are neatly painted cream color for the comfort of its inhabitants. On the palatial battle walls, where soldiers would have been working on rifle practice, there are two cafés that serve coffee and local wine. The views here are unparalleled and a sunset visit is a must.
To reach the fortress, the attackers had to cross the Rhine and then climb the steep slopes of the Ehrenbreitstein hill. Happily, very little effort was required today. The most fun way to travel to the top cable carWhich takes you from the edge of Deutsches Eck, just over the river, and to the entrance of the fort.
The view from the top is absolutely worth the admission fee – as is its simplicity, especially if you’re visiting a concert or winter show such as Koblenz Christmas GardenAs Johannes rightly said, what was once a fortress of defense is now a fortress of art.
After all that walking and stargazing, it’s time to hop on the next cable car and walk up to Koblenz old town. Blumenhof is a park just behind St. Castor’s Basilica, where locals eat their lunch among the statues. Ludwig Museum Next door.
Take a short walk among the flower beds and you will reach Gerhardt’s Janusgesellschaft (It roughly translates as “pleasure club” or “pleasure society.”) This is one of Koblenz’s top-rated restaurants, and Johannes told me it’s the best in the city.
However, in reality, Koblenz is a wine town. Its local tipples are from the Mittelrhein region, but the menu also includes interlopers from nearby Mosel, Rhinehausen and Pfalz. Unlike beer-loving parts of Germany – think Oktoberfest favorites like Bavaria – Koblenz residents prefer to drink in Weinstube, a type of bistro.
At a town-square restaurant recommended for its traditional dishes, I ate locally sourced rump steak with a creamy béarnaise sauce, garlic mushrooms and a side salad with remoulade. I’d say ideally suited for a glass or two of Riesling or Mueller-Thurgau.
In addition to its culinary heritage, from German Perfume And Mainz travels to Koblenz for retail therapy. Unlike bigger cities, Koblenz is incredibly proud of its family-owned boutiques. Johannes points to a home decor store that has been owned by the same family for three generations, which is already selling its Christmas ornaments.
Read more: This cozy wine region is Italy’s affordable answer to Champagne
He also draws my attention to the fact that there are no vacant units. This is true. I stare out the bright window of the cigar cellar for a long time, then turn onto a side street to find Spritz Atelier, a brand new bar specializing in fancy cocktails.
I order a wine made from local quince liquor called Kovelanger Shangelche and watch from the window as a man ends his workday with a self-spurred spirit. He takes a sip from the straw as he pushes his bike down the rocky road, before disappearing from sight.
Katie was a guest of Visit Koblenz.
how to do it
lufthansa There are direct flights to Frankfurt from London Heathrow and Manchester, then a direct train journey from Frankfurt Airport to Koblenz. Flight time is approximately one and a half hours; Train travel is the same again.
A Rhine or Mosel river cruise is a great way to extend a trip. Learn more in our Guide to the best European river cruises for 2025,
where to stay
Town center hotels are in good supply and great value. Sander Hotel is located in the center of the city, providing easy access to major sites.
Meanwhile, the Firhaus Koblenz is renowned for its sustainability credentials and modern spa.
I traveled in my camper van – there are plenty of options for parking spots, with shower facilities, close to the action.