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Teahe paints lobsters rigaThe Central Market has become a landmark of my holidays. i have visited now latviaI’ve been to the capital 10 times since 2017, and on each visit I make a pilgrimage to the seafood hall to pay my respects to that faded crustacean mural. Then I like to go out for a sip kvass From a plastic cup, the traditional fermented bread drink is dispensed from huge barrels at food and drink stalls. It’s a ritual that grounds me in a city that refuses to stand still.
When I first came to Riga eight years ago, I never imagined that it would become my favorite baltic City. Since then I’ve visited art events like the Riga Biennial (currently on hiatus) and the Survival Kit festival, both testaments to the city’s creative energy. But it wasn’t until I ventured beyond the colorful, cobbled old town (where reindeer herders frolic among medieval spires) that I understood what makes this city extraordinary.
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Riga is experiencing a cultural renaissance that feels both organic and inevitable. Solvita Kresse, director of the Latvian Center for Contemporary Art, explains that the city’s art scene is defined by “intimacy and intensity”.
“It’s small enough that everyone knows each other, yet diverse enough to constantly surprise you,” says Cressey. “It is a place where post-Soviet history meets contemporary experimentation – vibrant, dynamic and constantly evolving.”
The National Library, affectionately known as the “Castle of Light”, is a symbol of Riga’s ambition. Completed in 2014, this striking contemporary structure located on the banks of the Daugava River was designed by Latvian-American architect Gunnar Birkerts as a post-Soviet symbol of cultural rebirth – the nickname is a metaphor found in Latvian mythology to symbolize lost knowledge and wisdom, now reclaimed. However it is in the neighbourhoods, which spread outward like rays from the old town, where the true character of the city emerges.
To the north-east of the Old Town, the Brianna Quarter has developed into a thriving center for alternative nightlife, echoing bohemian districts such as Berlin’s Kreuzberg or Barcelona’s Gràcia. Labiatis Brewery serves inventive craft beers in industrial-chic surroundings, while recently opened Scapis has fast become a favorite destination for the city’s LGBT+ community. For jazz enthusiasts, M/Darbnica offers live music, an art gallery and vinyl DJ sets – a microcosm of Riga’s diverse creative scene.
Almost next door, the Telina Street quarter is bursting with creativity. The building’s facade is covered in graffiti, there are food stalls that emit fragrant smoke, and it hosts impromptu art exhibits.
Art nouveau is the dominant style of architecture in Riga, with over 800 buildings exhibiting this style – more than any other city in Europe. Alberta Iela is the street with the best examples, but wander off the main thoroughfares and you’ll find decorative masks featuring motifs of dragons, mythological creatures and peacocks.
In between sightseeing, strolls through the parks located in central Riga – such as Bastejkalna Park with its winding paths and canal – are ideal places to stop and take a breather.
The landscape here is rich in terms of contemporary art. Kresse recommends several essential stops: the Latvian Center for Contemporary Art, with its nomadic exhibition projects, and Kim? Contemporary art centers shape both Riga’s curatorial and critical landscape. In addition, the Latvian National Museum of Art offers a comprehensive program that combines historical and contemporary approaches, and the Riga Art Space in the city center often hosts ambitious institutional exhibitions.
Katerina Jurkevica, Executive Director of the Zoozeum (Latvian National Museum of Art), shares her must-visits, including her own establishment and galleries such as ASNI, XO and ISSP. Also on their list is the Zuzans Collection of the Museum Art Centre, which houses the largest private collection of Latvian art in the world – a highly recommended place to understand the country’s artistic development.
The city’s commitment to the arts also extends to accommodation – the Ola Foundation in Sipsala offers a handful of rooms within an active art space, allowing visitors to be surrounded by exhibitions and installations. It is an extraordinary example of how much art is woven into the fabric of life in Riga.
If embarking on a Latvian art odyssey makes you hungry, try my personal favorite, Mikla Bakery. It has become famous for its sourdough bread and pastries that match Nordic precision with Latvian ingredients.
For coffee, Jarvika and Kresge both champion Calve cafés. “Calve is a favorite spot – perfect for working, meeting friends or just enjoying a great cup of coffee in a beautifully designed space,” Jarkevica confirms. Says Cressey: “Locally roasted coffee and minimalist design create a perfect atmosphere.”
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The restaurant scene has matured impressively. Cressey describes it as “becoming a creative ecosystem of its own.” Oziris dates back to the 1990s and “remains beloved for its unpretentious beauty and as a meeting place for the city’s intellectual community”.
While Kresse says that Tris Pavru restaurans “playful experiments with Latvian flavours” and Smores “reimagines Nordic cuisine through minimalist precision”.
For provisions, the central market is non-negotiable. Housed in a renovated zeppelin hangar, it is one of the largest markets in Europe and a living monument of Baltic business culture.
In addition to my beloved lobster painting, there are stalls selling everything from smoked fish to wild mushrooms, honey and pickles. The energy here is infectious. Look up from the market and you’ll see the imposing shadow of the Soviet-era Latvian Academy of Sciences building – a reminder of the city’s layered history.
For a deeper understanding of that history, the Museum of Occupation offers a sobering but necessary perspective on Latvia’s experience under Soviet and Nazi rule.
If you want to take a piece of Riga’s fabulous home with you, there are plenty of opportunities in the city’s design and fashion scene. Cressey points to Marenrol, whose conceptual tailoring combines art and fashion. The brand will represent Latvia at the Venice Biennale in 2026 with artist Bruno Birmanis.
“The Calansima Quarter market is perfect for discovering independent makers – from ceramicists to textile artists – in a casual, creative environment,” says Cressey.
For Latvian design and sophisticated fashion pieces, Jarkevica recommends RIIJA, Butterman Studio, as well as Iveta Wakeman’s boutique. The soon-to-open Skrull Shop is also worth a visit.
One piece of advice from Cressey that resonates with me is: “Don’t just stay in the old town.” It’s beautiful, but the most authentic side of Riga lies beyond it. She recommends exploring the wooden architecture and cafés of Egganskalns, strolling through the bohemian area of Miraella or visiting the Central Market. “The essence of Riga lies between the historical, the local and the quietly avant-garde,” she says.
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Jarkevica echoes this sentiment: “Every experience in Riga can be beautiful – the best way to get a feel for the city is to plan your trip according to your own interests rather than following typical tourist routes.”
Between its arts credentials, inspiring architecture and café culture, Riga is a strong contender for the new capital of Europe.
how to get there
airbaltic operates direct flights from London Gatwick to Riga International Airport, with a flight time of approximately two hours 45 minutes. Prices start from £85 returns. As an alternative, Ryanair Flights from London Stansted to Riga, return fares from £60.
where to stay
Grand Poet Hotel A beautiful, art-driven boutique hotel, with interiors created in collaboration with local designers. It is located in the historic center district. Rooms start from £150 per night, not including breakfast.