I Talked to a Dermatologist—These Are the Three Skin Care Ingredients She Recommended for Acne

I was never one to struggle with acne growing up, but since my late twenties my skin has been waging a war against acne. “Adult acne is rarely random,” says aesthetic therapist Dr. Alia Ahmed of Harley Street Dermal. She adds, “Lifestyle factors such as lack of sleep, excessive use of strenuous activities, frequent product changes, and even gut health can contribute.”

The science behind adult acne is the same as teen acne — think clogged pores caused by excess oil, dead skin, and hormonal changes that increase sebum production. “In your 20s and 30s, flare-ups are often driven by hormonal changes, especially around the menstrual cycle, pregnancy or discontinuing birth control.” Dr. Ahmed explains that stress and cortisol also play a big role, as they increase oil production and inflammation. “We also see that a lot of acne is caused by barrier damage from excessive exfoliation or aggressive household tools.”

For adults, the spots tend to be located around the lower face, jaw, and neck, and they may appear more swollen. My skin is sensitive, so spots often leave long-lasting scars and hyperpigmentation. Some of my blemishes took weeks to fade away and some have left behind a temporary scar.

“Acne scars require a two-pronged approach: prevention and correction,” advises Dr. Ahmed. “It’s important to properly treat active acne to avoid new scars – for existing scars, retinoids, vitamin C and SPF help reduce pigmentation, while in-clinic treatments such as microneedling, radiofrequency, laser resurfacing or polynucleotides can significantly improve texture and collagen over time.” Although it may take time, stains can be dealt with with the right approach.

“It is also necessary to control active acne first and wear it daily spf, Because sun exposure can significantly worsen pigmentation marks caused by acne,” Holly Mason, acne and skin health expert and founder of The Skin Investment Clinic, tells me.

read more, The best face moisturizers with SPF that make daily sun protection simple

As a beauty writer, I find myself testing a lot of different products, so it’s hard to stick to a consistent regimen. But to tackle my blemishes in the new year, I went to a dermatologist for help. Of course, cutting out alcohol, cheese, sugar and drinking lots of water are everyday changes that can make a big difference – but, like many of us, I wasn’t willing to compromise my lifestyle.

with a dermatologist Dr Nora’s Advice, I changed my usual skin care regime hyaluronic acid, vitamin C And peptides To introduce three new hardworking ingredients. In just over a week, I’m noticing a difference – even during Christmas party season. If you’re struggling with adult acne and blemish-prone skin, these are the key activities you should implement into your skin care routine — along with advice from expert dermatologists.

Retinal and Retinol

Ahmed says, “When it comes to acne, it’s less about throwing everything at your skin and more about choosing a few proven active ingredients and using them consistently. A vitamin A derivative like retinol (or retinol if you’re more sensitive) is one of the gold standards—it helps regulate cell turnover, reduce congestion, and improve post-acne scars over time.”

CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum

One budget skincare purchase seriously impressed a beauty expert Lauren CunninghamCeraVe’s Retinol Resurfacing Serum is perfect for beginners. “The serum has been formulated to minimize all potential side effects, while also minimizing the appearance of dark spots, post-acne blemishes and large pores,” they said in their article. CeraVe Retinol Serum ReviewStating that she liked the results, she said that she could “really see a difference in the fading of the light marks”,

salicylic acid

“Salicylic acid is especially effective for acne-prone skin because it’s oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate pores to clear congestion and reduce breakouts,” says Mason. “That said, active ingredients should be introduced carefully and balanced with barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides and niacinamide to avoid irritation, which can worsen acne,” she advises.

CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser with Salicylic Acid

CeraVe’s SA Smoothing Cleanser is a bestseller for good reason. Made with salicylic acid, the cleanser helps penetrate and unclog pores, remove dead skin cells, reduce breakouts, and smooth out rough texture. I’ve noticed all of the above benefits, with the gentle and non-peeling formula leaving my skin soft and supple instead of drying out like some acid-formulated cleansers.

simple salicylic acid solution

Priced at just £6, The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid Solution is an impressive addition to your skin care routine. beauty expert ava welsing-kitcher said in his review of simple salicylic acid: “For me, it has never failed as a surefire, straightforward spot treatment over the years. It stops open whiteheads from producing pus overnight, drying them out without causing irritation or scarring after treatment.”

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glycolic acid

“For texture and dullness, glycolic acid can be helpful, but it is better to use it cautiously and not every day, especially if you are already using vitamin A,” advises Dr. Ahmed.

List of Glycolic Acid Toner

Their list is one of the best names in budget skincare. Working to target blemishes by gently removing dead skin and reducing oil production, this glycolic acid toner also helps improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation from older spots – tick, tick, tick. I have used it twice in the last week and have started getting the benefits.

Learn more about the best spot treatments, Tried and tested by a beauty writer