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YesCovering waist-high powder, weaving between bamboo as a light dusting of snow falls from the gray sky, it’s easy to see why Niseko has become what it is Popular Ski AreasOn these slopes, you’ll hear plenty of Australian accents, a few American and the odd British – because skiers and snowboarders from all over the world have felt its charm. mountains of japan,
Thanks to superb snow conditions, skiers are increasingly swapping European and North American resorts in favor of East Asia’s peaks – and Niseko Island. Hokkaido It is clearly a favorite in the north of Japan. It’s a far cry from the charming bungalows of French resorts and the fairy-tale villages of the Swiss mountains, but it has a special appeal of its own.
Spread across four resorts on Mount Annupuri – Hanazono, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annupuri – Niseko’s growing popularity with tourists over the past decade has meant there is a superb ski infrastructure including well-connected modern lifts and bus routes linking the bases of the ski areas. It has top of the range accommodation options – including Vishal Hilton This gorgeous looms in the center of Niseko village – and the food is family-run Izakaya And from pizza joints to hipster cafes and Michelin-starred eateries.

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Although there is plenty of challenging backcountry for advanced skiers, the slopes are more accessible off-piste than in Europe, with shorter sections allowing less experienced skiers to take advantage of the legendary powder. On-piste, the snow is thick, powdery and a dream to ski, and the slopes are much less crowded than most European resorts. The queues at the lifts are minimal, and there are only a scattering of skiers and snowboarders on each run.
One of the greatest joys of skiing in Niseko – although less high-adrenaline – is night skiing. While in Europe, skiers will be back at their chalets by 5pm or so after drinking gluhwein In the village, Niseko, some of the lower pistes remain open until the evening. It is almost deserted when I make the last run of the day and skiing alone under the soft glow of the piste lights is magical.
Instead of spending my entire trip in Niseko – which was certainly charming – I also traveled to the mountains of Shiga Kogen in the highlands of Nagano Prefecture in central Japan. While popular with Japanese tourists (helped by the fact that it’s just a few hours away tokyo on the Bullet Train), these slopes do not attract the same numbers of foreign skiers and have a much more local feel.

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I was traveling with wayfarer travelwhich specializes in customized stays to awe-inspiring destinations, and company CEO Jason Steven told me about the appeal of traveling to more local resorts.
“We have a very strong team of Japan Ski experts wayfarer travel And it’s always been part of Wayfarer’s mission to shine a light on lesser-known ski resorts,” he said.
“While many of our customers want to experience Niseko’s famous powder and vibrant international energy, we encourage them to visit less touristy ski resorts that showcase the soul of the country. We include Shiga Kogen in our itineraries because it offers a refreshing contrast to Niseko – it’s “old Japan” – cool, local and untouched.”
And Shiga Kogen definitely has soul. Although there are plenty of hotels in the mountains where you can go straight to the slopes, I stayed in Yamanouchi, about an hour’s bus ride from the resorts, which has a rich history spa city,

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Yamanouchi is probably best known for its snow monkeys – Japanese macaques that are attracted to the hot springs – but I won’t forget these. It’s an Insta-favorite spot because of the photos of these adorable animals bathing in a snowy backdrop, but it’s also very touristy. It is far better to spend your time among the peaks or exploring the city. Thanks to its hot springs, renowned for healing and relaxation, the area has been visited by travelers for over a thousand years, with numerous onsen (Japanese spa) villages springing up. Wandering the cobblestone streets at Shibu Onsen, I saw visitors coming in yukata textiles and wood can do Sandals walking past various wooden bath houses while the December snow was falling softly.
was my home for a few days Ryokan BiunoyadoA traditional Japanese ryokan where you sleep on futon beds and eat at the hotel restaurant that serves Japanese breakfast (usually consisting of dishes like miso soup, pickled vegetables, steamed rice and seaweed) and Kaiseki, Multi-course dinner using locally sourced ingredients.
It’s not just the cultural offerings that make Shiga Kogen so attractive; The skiing is truly world class. Despite not attracting the same number of foreign tourists as the North Island, it is actually Japan’s largest combined ski area, made up of 18 resorts and covered by a single ski pass. It also hosted the Winter Olympics in 1998.

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Like Niseko, that silky powder snow is truly amazing. The lifts are old, the infrastructure is not that modern, and the rental gear is old, but the ski access is excellent and you feel a world away from the commercial resorts in North America. Here, you’ll eat sukiyaki udon and tonjiru in cafes tucked away from the slopes and sip drinks for your après.
Ultimately, for me it’s all about the landscape and the skiing – and the powder snow in Niseko is like a drug. I am overwhelmed with the thrill of it. Thanks to night skiing, I spend every moment on the slopes instead of heading to the onsen. The slopes of Shiga Kogen simply cannot be compared.
But for its mix of culture, food, relaxation and powder snow, Yamanouchi offers something truly special. Plus, you’re just a bullet train away from Tokyo, which means you can easily squeeze in a few days of skiing in the city.
Alternatively – and preferably – do what I did: spend a few weeks in Japan and incorporate both.
Annabel’s trip to Japan was supported by Wayfarer Travel.
Wayfarer’s 10 Day Japan Ski and Culture Tour It includes five nights of world-class Japan skiing – including a backcountry tour and a snowmobile adventure – as well as a luxury Tokyo tour and a traditional ryokan and food tour. Trips are tailor-made and prices start from £8,799pp.
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