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Few trouser trends divide opinion just like balloon pants.
trending late the eighties And in the nineties, perhaps better known as “hammer pants”, baggy, bulky and deliberately impractical-looking bottoms came back into fashion.
This style has flooded the Fashion Week runways, becoming the defining silhouette in the spring/summer collections for Chloé. armaniAlaya and more.
But while designers have embraced the exaggerated proportions, many shoppers are hesitant – unsure whether balloon trousers are chic or a wrong step away from a clown costume.
According to stylists, the difference lies entirely in the details. So, here’s how to strike the right balance when styling balloon pants this season.
It starts with fit
The biggest mistake people make with balloon pants is to assume that the abundance of fabric can hide your figure, and therefore getting the shape right isn’t important. But in reality, the silhouette demands precision.
“The first rule [is] Make sure the fit is right,” says stylist to the stars Deborah Sheridan-Taylor,
“Length is important, the hem should hit at or slightly above the ankle. Consider styles with a proper ankle cuff rather than an elastic gathered finish, which can look dangerously close to Aladdin territory.”
She notes that although the shape may seem unfamiliar, the benefits are worth it.
“Get them right and they offer a beautiful alternative to the ubiquitous wide-leg trousers, combining comfort with a truly dramatic silhouette.”
There is also a practical aspect to this – especially in the UK. “They’re also a great alternative to trousers during wet weather, as there won’t be any creases in the hemline!”
luxury stylist oriona rob Agree that proportion is everything. “Balloon pants are all about deliberate volume.
“The key thing is to make sure the rest of the outfit looks controlled and streamlined so that the silhouette looks fashion-forward rather than overwhelming.
“It’s also important to pay attention to where the trousers sit at the waist, as a mid-to-high rise instantly makes the volume feel more flattering and elongates the leg.”
cos barrel-leg denim Drawstring trousers£85
Arquette bubble-hem trousers, £95
Choose contrast on top
Since balloon trousers exaggerate the lower half, the upper body needs to be pulled further back.
“Balloon trousers are more difficult to style than a wide-leg or straight cut because of their unusual proportions,” says Sheridan-Taylor.
“To balance the exaggerated balloon silhouette, layering close to the body, knitwear like a cashmere tank, or a fitted top worn with a cropped blazer will help contrast the fluidity of the style.”
For a more relaxed approach, she suggests bending into shape rather than stiffness.
“Try tucking a shirt into the waistband for a simple casual approach, but be sure to open a few extra buttons, creating a flattering inverted V-shape, to elongate your upper body.”
As Sheridan-Taylor notes, when outerwear enters the equation, length matters.
“Cropped or waist-length jackets are a favorite of stylists because they visually ‘cut’ the volume and highlight the waist,” says Robb. “If you prefer something longer, keep it structured and open so you can still see definition at the bottom.”
Massimo Dutti 100% Cashmere Crew Neck Top, £129
Zara Cropped Button Jacket – Item, £109
Shoes should anchor, not compete.
Shoes can either deflate ballooning pants or throw off proportions altogether.
“In winter, structured shoes complement balloon pants better. Chunky loafers, leather ankle boots with solid soles […] Or even a thin Chelsea boot works brilliantly.”
Contrary to popular opinion, Robb warns to “generally avoid very delicate shoes like thin ballet flats or stilettos, as they can make the proportions look off and feel a little dated”.
However, pointed shoes can work brilliantly to compliment a casual silhouette.
“The visual line of a pointed heel instantly creates a sharpness […] See, also helps lengthen the leg,” says Sheridan-Taylor. “Ankle boots are also a great choice, because they meet the boot at just the right point.”
“Don’t hesitate to purchase chunkier platform style footwear,” she adds. “A chunky trainer or sandal is a great way to tie down a budding wardrobe.”
H&M Pointed Court Shoes in Burgundy, £32.99
Vagabond Hedda Ankle Boots, £145
Don’t forget about fabric and finish
Not all balloon pants behave the same – and the choice of fabric determines whether the shape looks nice and architectural or messy and unruly.
“Satins and silky fabrics – and even velvet – provide a lustrous finish to eveningwear,” says Sheridan-Taylor, “paired with silky peplum tops and heels for elegant fluidity through loose silhouettes.”
Structure matters for daytime or winter wear. “More structured fabrics make the balloon shape more pronounced, such as cotton twill or gabardine, and may be a more wearable option.”
Rob says that clothing is very dependent on the weather. “Fabric choice makes a big difference. In the UK climate, I like wool blends, brushed cotton twill, heavy poplin and soft tailored fabrics with structure.”
She cautions against anything too light, especially in the summer.
“Avoid anything too pale, as it can look shabby very quickly.”
It’s important to contrast your clothes, so if you’re wearing casual cotton, wool or cashmere, add sparkle through accessories like statement earrings, ring stacks or layered bangles.
Jigsaw Deconstructed Petals Earrings, £28 (were £70)
Sometimes Bicolor Rings Set, £25.99
Arquette Fluid Velvet Trouser, £119
Zara ZW Collection Striped Barrel Trousers, £49.99