No other shows so far Paris Fashion Week has drawn such a fever crush of famous celebrities, designers and press.
Everyone had eyesight Jonathan Anderson – Northern Irish designer who has already converted Lowe into a global powerhouse of intelligence and craft – as he unveiled his first Dyer Women’s collection on Wednesday.
The weight of history was everywhere. Dyer was a fashion house that rebuilt Paris in 1947 as the capital of the fashion world, when Christian dyer Unveiling “New form“That time the jacket and wasp-cam silhouette made headlines in a world, which is still emerging from war.
The 41 -year -old Anderson is the first in the history of Dyer to oversee lines of both men and women, a responsibility with vast cultural and commercial stakes.
All eyes on Anderson
Staging pretended the moment. A huge inverted pyramid, echoing the lake, revolves on the runway as an assembling of the imagery of Dyer, which is twinkling on it at a breakcation speed – a horror film splice of icons and ghosts. Message: Inheritance weight, fracture and unstable.
This was followed by a revolution, but a series of gestures. Anderson has never been to explode home code; In Lowee, and again at the beginning of its dyer men in June, their method has been to bend and resumed. That instinct took place from here. The silhouette slipped, almost clearly loose. Admiral Visars caused the Bro. Black lace flared like a bow – or bats – from behind. Most of the striking skirts had a “double balloon” form hidden, which produced a strange, boom, vsay-like silhouette-A rage for a rage on the 18th-century paranirs made a sly supernatural for the present.
The icon was reconsidered again, but no ‘new look’ moment
The Bar Jacket-Dyer’s revolutionary new look was re-prepared the staple-off-center, its peeplum moved towards the bust, the hour’s glasses turned in some real. On the body, it was sometimes seen sick-fitting, such as the poetry of thought fought against the ratio.
The result echoed his menwear: not a “new look” with an capital N – as a critic placed it – but a constellation of liberal ideas. The critics who wanted a single, define the Jolt-would have left a slimen-style bolt of sureteness or a Simmons-like manifesto-kamjor. Instead, Anderson’s Dyer surfaced like his early Montaz: Fragrancery and deliberately unresolved.
Was an undisputed victory. Quality, finish and accurate craft of fabric clothing reinforced the etelier power of the dyer. Historical references felt alive, nor emitted. And different oxygen was separated with different, balloon skirts, cutting with accessories.
Still took shortcomings. The inaugural film’s Hichcokian Menus was never fully matched on the runway. Celebrity Crush at the risk of overcimating the message. And the absence of a commanding silhouette means that Anderson’s dyers remain, for now, a task in progress.
Changes
Nevertheless, the horrors of this debut cannot be eliminated. Anderson is part of a rare season of First: The first channel collection of Mathyu Blaze comes next week, Piercepolo Piccioli unveiled its debut in Balesiaga on 4 October, and Demna has launched his Gucci through a spike zonez -directed film event in Milan. Together, they create a reshuffle that is re -writing the luxury map.
On Wednesday, there was less coronation than prolog: understood in tone, radical, the show indicated the onset of many possible routes.