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Britain’s first vegetarian restaurant to earn the coveted Michelin star, Plates, is thriving, yet its tables are filled mainly with non-vegetarians.
Chef-owner Kirk Howarth reveals that “about 95 percent of diners still eat meat or fish elsewhere,” proving that plant-based fine dining is moving beyond its niche.
Haworth, who co-founded the London eatery with her sister, deliberately avoids the “vegan” label, wanting dishes to be judged on taste, not ideology.
“I always say we’re a fine dining restaurant. I don’t say we’re vegetarian,” Haworth told Reuters in the dimly lit dining room of his restaurant. “Food should be evaluated on the basis of taste,” he said, recalling a guest who declared himself “a changed man” in the middle of dinner.
Platts became Britain’s first plant-based restaurant to earn a Michelin star earlier this year, a milestone Haworth says reflects a change in the way chefs and critics view vegetables. He rejects any notion that this is a passing fad.
of britain Vegetarian population is still small – About 3 percent of adults – but curiosity is growing. Michelin praises the plates for their “earthy, natural liveliness” and inventive and attractive dishes that give vegetables the respect they deserve.
Haworth’s approach is based on personal experience.
Trained in Michelin-starred kitchens around the world, she was forced to rethink her diet after being diagnosed with Lyme disease more than a decade ago. Bedridden for months, he began cooking without meat, dairy or refined sugar to deal with chronic inflammation.
That experiment became Plates, which opened 18 months ago after years of pop-ups. Today, the restaurant is fully booked until the end of March.
“We’re not trying to replace meat or make things look like fish,” Howarth said. “We showcase acidity, umami and layers that make the palate feel alive.”
Despite the Michelin accolade, Haworth has no plans to expand. Instead, their goal is to refine the experience and, perhaps, earn a second star.
“The process is the most fun part,” he said with a smile.