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The recent surge in color analysis on social media shows that people are ‘dressing up’ their colors and beginning to dominate conversations about personal style and capsule wardrobes.
Whether you’re “spring” or “winter”, “warm” or “cool” colored, green or blue, the debate continues over which color is darker, but a more relevant question deserves equal attention: Which neutrals actually look good on you?
Neutrals may fly under the radar in trend round-ups, but they’re hardly insignificant when it comes to wardrobe workhorses.
As designer and podcaster Amanda Wakeley OBE says – “Neutrals are the quiet hero of every wardrobe.” She believes that “finding the right shades for your skin tone is as important as finding your most flattering shades”.
When chosen well, “they become the foundation of your style – pieces you reach for again and again because they make you feel confident and comfortable.”
So, here’s an expert guide on how to find the perfect neutrals for you.
Undertones and ‘glow test’
Decoding whether your skin is suited for warm or cool neutrals can seem like an impossible test until you realize it’s often more intuitive than scientific.
Personal stylist says logic only gets you so far Deborah Sheridan-TaylorJoe recommends taking things back apart. “Remove all makeup and use natural daylight.
“Put clothing directly under your chin – if it makes your skin look glowy and healthy, it’s in your area; too tired or dull, it’s not.
“You’re looking for that instant glowing ‘pick-me-up moment’ where your face comes alive instead of subdued. Again, this is determined more by an emotion.”
Wakeley recommends looking beyond just skin color, saying, “Your hair color will also be a factor, especially if you color your hair.”
She suggests some clues. “If you burn easily you are more likely to be a light complexion and if you burn easily you are more likely to be a warm complexion.”
Even eye color can play a role – “Blue or green eyes are often associated with cool undertones, while brown and gray may be associated with warm undertones.”
But the easiest way to check is through jewellery. “If you’re into gold, you’ll probably suit warm colors like camel and ivory. If silver suits you more, cool neutrals like dove grey, charcoal or crisp white are often your allies.”
But Wakeley cautions against being too harsh — sometimes, it’s about how you feel in the shade, not just how it reads.
H&M Gray Marl Jumper, £22.99
M&S Crew Neck Pocket Detail Cardigan, £36
color matching color
Once you know your undertone or season, the next tricky thing is knowing exactly which neutrals to choose.
Wakeley believes that “for fair skin, soft greys, taupes and blush-toned neutrals look beautifully sophisticated”.
“Olive hues look vibrant in creamy ivory, warm caramel and khaki,” she says, while “darker hues look extraordinary in rich espresso, sand or bright white.”
White really is the trickiest neutral of all. “Optical white is a bright pure white, with a slight blue tint that makes it appear even brighter on the skin,” says Sheridan-Taylor, “whereas true off-white has a yellow or warm hue like ivory.”
So, if you have a cool complexion – or you’re wearing silver jewelery – choose pure white. But if you’re wearing gold jewelery or have a warm complexion, opt for more of an ivory white, which will complement your skin tone more.
Boden Elsa Smocked Yoke Jersey Shirt, £44.25 (was £59)
sweaty betty Essential Sculpt Long Sleeve Top, £28 (was £40)
When beige betrays you
While each may be a shade of beige, brown or dark blue – they are certainly not all the same.
The wrong beige color can make you look unhealthy and drain the heat from your face. Wakeley says design can be transformative. “If beige feels too flat, try warm oatmeal or soft biscuit tones instead.”
The same applies to gray, she notes, “If gray tires you out, choose a smoky mushroom or light stone color—something with a touch of warmth. Even adding texture—a boucle, silk or cashmere finish—can transform a neutral’s play against the skin.”
If you’re not into the classic neutral colors of brown, gray and white, Sheridan-Taylor says there are some shades that are great anonymous neutrals.
“Khaki is a wonderful neutral option […] navy is the unsung hero of the neutral family [and] Maroon and clay are also wonderful neutral tones – you can pair them with anything.
A&F Carry wool-blend trench coat, £180
And Other Stories Draped Asymmetric T-Shirt, £37
M&S Pure Cotton Horseshoe Fit Trousers, £40
Stradivarius Soft Leather Trainers, £39.99
new neutral
You might think that neutrals are timeless shades that come back year after year, but like khaki, navy, and maroon, Sheridan-Taylor points out that there are certain shades that become trending neutrals.
If you’ve had your eye on the runways – or even the high-street – lately, you’ll have noticed that brown is the new black.
Wakeley says chocolate brown is “undoubtedly the new neutral”, calling it “wonderfully flattering on a wide range of skin tones”.
“It matches beautifully with soft blushes and light blues as well as pops of stronger color like lipstick red and moss green.”
If you still want to stick with your trusty beige, gray, and white colors, but want to update them, Sheridan-Taylor says that “a neutral is a neutral until it’s completely neutral.”
The transparency transforms the classics into something modern, she says. “A sheer beige skirt, worn with an oversized gray cashmere knit […] now you’re talking.”
Even sheer knit layers over monochromatic vests are making a comeback, evoking the grunge-inspired semi-sheer trends of the nineties.
Zara Double Soft T-shirt, £17.99
Zara Faux Suede Midi Skirt, £35.99