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A Floods of snow covered the alpine huts and glowing trees that decorated the Old Town Square. Christmas market Opening days were the next day, and the decorated courtyards, dimly lit alleys and hidden gardens were all buzzing with people enjoying al fresco eggnog.
this was praha At its most charming. This city is also notable among european The capitals, thanks to its mix of architecture, give it a particularly beautiful cityscape. It becomes more attractive when its thatched roofs, burger houses and Gothic towers are covered with white dust.
The wonder of this 1,100-year-old city was not lost on me, but I have already visited it Check Having visited the capital twice, I had made up my mind that any future trips would have to include a trip elsewhere to see more of the country. This time, a stay in the capital will bookend a journey for a lesser-known spa city In western bohemia.
Read more: The best Christmas markets in Europe
but first, prahaa clear base, especially during Christmas marketThe city’s other main plaza, Wenceslas Square, is the focal point of both the markets and the country’s movement away from Soviet rule during the Velvet Revolution of 1989. Nowadays, the presence of a huge casino and a large, almost 24-hour McDonald’s is indicative of Czech opinion on that period of their history.
I headed west to watch the gas lamps dim through the light mist on Charles Bridge, while Prague Castle, the largest ancient castle in the world, stood majestically on the hill across the Vltava River. Between these sights, Prague has an impressive but manageable list of major tourist attractions.
Interspersed are art galleries and interesting museums – from the National Gallery (entry from £6) to the Museum of Communism (adult entry £13) – and a proliferation of affordable drinking spots, great restaurants and other sights, such as the Municipal House or the original city gate towers that serve as gateways to the old town. Prague Boats’ Lunch Cruise and Buffet Package is a relaxing way to spend a few hours enjoying spectacular views and Czech cuisine; For something different, visit Spa Beerland to bathe in hops and pour yourself pints for an hour.
So far, I know that the Czech capital is a city with a similar volume Entertainment, intrigue and romanceIt’s a great introduction to the country: a cheap, beautiful capital It has preserved important pieces of the country’s history while adapting to the demands of modern life for both locals and tourists. But I suspect it might offer a diluted version of Czech culture – something more palatable for tourists who might prefer pizza instead of goulash.
And Karlovy Vary somehow confirms my suspicions. It’s a world away from the City of the Hundred Peaks; This “City of a Hundred Waterfalls” is a place where centuries-old traditions are reflected in modern times, branches of Czech culture are on display at every corner, and there are no fast-food chains or branded coffee shops here.
Although relatively unknown UKthis is one Europe’s leading spa citiesIts thermal springs are renowned for their purported healing properties, and they once attracted European royalty. Nowadays, Karlovy Vary is successfully trying to re-establish itself as a modern tourist destination.
The town is located in the Slavkov Forest, bisected by a slowly flowing river and surrounded by hills filled with tall trees. At this time of the year, the evergreens stand covered with snow: the presence of which makes the leafless trees appear surprisingly full.
The white landscape blends with the sandstone columns and pastel tones of the various art nouveau buildings, and you can take a funicular ride up to the Diana Observation Tower to see it all. Next to the tower is a hunting lodge-style restaurant serving typical Czech cuisine; It is somewhat similar to the UK or Germany, but often with one variation. Think roast duck with potato-bread dumplings or pikeperch in white wine.
This is a place where Czech people go to recover from various ailments, although recreational spa activities are not frowned upon, as I found in the pools here. spa hotel thermalWhen the snow slowly falls, it’s quite pleasant to wander among the different temperatures of its outdoor pool, and the view of the city from eight floors high makes you wonder what it all looked like during its 18th-century heyday.
Read more: Why you should visit Cesky Krumlov, the permanent Prague-in-miniature
With this perspective in mind, I consider how I’ve been able to enjoy that fascinating capital while also discovering the past (and present) of a place that my family and friends had never heard of. These are the potential merits of a dual destination holiday, briefly explained in the podcast The Independent’Travel correspondent, Simon Calder, who – when asked about the ideal length of time for a city break – suggested “no more than 48 hours” to “immerse yourself in a great city” before heading somewhere nearby to “get that extra dimension”.
You can find your extra dimension in the Catalan counterculture of Barcelona or the castles of the Loire Valley. Or, it may be hidden amid the faded grandeur of a once great spa town.
travel essentials
British Airways There are flights to Prague from London Heathrow (prices from £46 each way) and London City Airport (prices from £81 each way). From Václav Havel Airport, buses reach central Prague in just 15 minutes.
Book your stay at Andaz Prague in a location that’s within easy walking distance of all the main sights. It is part of Hyatt’s luxurious “Andaz” line, which blends sophistication, contemporary luxury and a nod to local culture – in this case, showcasing local glasswork.