It may look like a world, looking at long, warm heat and relatively dry September, but often we are caught when it rains, the gardens are struggling to sink into great ponds and to bring precious plants in the air.
The global reports of the destructive season such as disastrous floods and criminal heatwaves cannot be ignored for a long time, Chelsea Gold Medal winning designer Tom Massey warned at her new book, RHS Waterhouse Garden.
But there are things that you can do to pre-fasting, which can cause downpores in autumn and winter, and to reduce the damage after the arrival of rains, Massey is called Massey, whose Waterd Garden highlights permanent water management in a changing climate. Flower show.
1. Plant trees and shrubs that love water
“If there is an area of your garden that floods regularly, select plants that can pull too much water from the soil, such as Selix species (willow), Elder (Alans) and Betula (birch), which help to soak up water and dry heavy land.
“Cornus (Dogwood) is also a good option as they bring perennial winter color like winter iris (iris sibirika), Estilbe and Purple Dysfunction (Lithram Sellicaria), which thrive in moist soil. Along with they absorb extra rain, stabilize the soil, and the beauty of the year-old is added.
These plants will also be submerged, it notes, and planting from October to the end of March is the ideal time.
“If the ground is very soden (due to frequent torrential decline), planting is delayed because you can harm the soil structure by trampling around and dug it when that wet,” he advises.
2. Improvement in soil health
“Add organic matter to infiltrate and increase water storage. Healthy soil can act like sponge and it also reduces the run-offs.
“If you do not have soil and it is very compressed and very humiliated, the water simply goes away and it can cause floods in other parts of the garden.”
They improve their soil by adding regular organic materials such as compost, leaf mold or well rotated manure to enrich the soil, he suggests. Healthy soil will catch for rain when it is wet and gradually leaves it because things dry up.
“Even a bucket makes a difference from per square meter. These ingredients also act as wet grass, and you can top one or two times a year with manure bark or garden manure.
“There is no need to dig it-insects and germs will work, pull it into the soil. Mulking also prevents condensation, presses weeds, and reduces the run-off of the surface.”
3. Use permeable surfaces
“If you are designing your garden with scratches, try to include a lot of permeable surfaces.
“Paving can be flooded locally from large areas without any permeability, and the water is simply running straight and can overwhel other parts of the garden.”
Gravel, permeable blocks or earthen pavers, or reinforced grass/gravel grid (widely available in the UK Garden Center), swap solid paving or concrete, he recommends. “These surfaces allowed the rain to soak, instead of reducing the flash flood and topping the ground water.
“Or you can think of leaving the gaps or channels between areas of watery, which is to roam in the soil. If you have already found large areas of paving, pull some pavers here and there to make pockets for planting.”
4. Disconnect your downpipes
“Often, locally flood is caused by sewer system, which are all going directly into sewers from the water of the storm and from here you see the flood and flood drains on the roads.
“To disconnect your downpipes that come from your roof and add water butt or rain garden or a swail (a shallow channel designed to collect and gradually collect water) or connect them with soak, instead to allow that water to go to the main sewer system, the local area could be a really good way to help the floods in the main sewer system.
5. Dig a pond
If you have a garden area, which is prone to flood, consider digging a pond, plant it with marsh plants and prepare it with decorative rocks and sets, so that when it rains, it makes an interesting garden facility, suggests.
“You will also need to think about overflow, but if you dig a large space you can actually be an attractive seasonal ponds that fill and empty.”
6. Lose your waterlog lawn
If your lawn is in a part of your garden that is prone to flood, you want to rethink a one, says Massey.
“You are fighting a losing battle because if you try to eradicate a lawn flood, it is very superficial by just by piercing with a garden fork and it is a deep problem,” he warns.
Instead, consider creating a rainy garden, a shallow depression is designed to catch water and then allows it to surround it, he suggests.
“Or you can have a marsh garden, and planting plants that are like bogie conditions, which will create a different kind of residence that can be really interesting for biodiversity. Just rethink the area instead of constantly fighting with a bogey lawn.”
Moisture-loving plants that are ideal for a marsh garden include Iris Pseudacorus (Yellow Flag Iris), Medovsvat (Philippandula Ulmaria), SEZ (Carex) and Fern.
RHS Waterwaise Garden: Stabilizing its garden through drought and floods by Tom Massey, published by DK, priced at £ 22. Now available