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yesYou must have seen those selfies. Celebrities, influencers and trend-seeking commoners sit in the dark with Futuristic LED mask Red light from below obscured their faces. Yes, they look a bit like background actors in a horror movie, or the protagonists of a sci-fi reboot Phantom of the Opera. But it’s all in the pursuit of perfect complexion.
Over the past few years, and especially this Christmas, at-home light therapy masks have become the ultimate beauty status symbol. You just put it on, sit back, and rest smugly knowing you’re giving your skin a massive boost, smoothing wrinkles and lightning-fast blemishes (or so the marketing claims tell you).
Or you can wear it to multitask while working on things on your to-do list. I was startled once when I spotted someone sitting in the front seat of a 4×4, their features obscured by a glowing mask, like a Terminator on a school run (they were in the passenger seat, but still).
Since the pandemic turned many of us to at-home beauty treatments, light therapy devices have exploded in popularity, with sales of LED face masks reportedly soaring 55% in 2020, and the global market will be worth around £600 million by 2032. Face masks can be a big investment: while some of the more affordable products cost around £100, there are plenty of high-end products priced from a few hundred to well into the thousands.
But despite the social media hype, are they really worth the staggering price? Or are we just being seduced by the lure of some tantalizing before and after photos? “People are attracted to simple, technology-based solutions they can use at home while watching TV,” said Dr. Sach Mohan, cosmetic physician and founder of Harley Street’s. Revere Clinic. “The downside is that what’s popular online often doesn’t match what’s effective.”
Phototherapy or photobiomodulation (PBM) has been used clinically for decades. Dr. Mohan explains that it “works by exposing layers of skin to specific wavelengths of light,” which can “cause cellular changes.” Our cells “often respond to different wavelengths by increasing energy production, improving circulation, or triggering biological responses such as collagen production.”
Dr. Mohan added that these different wavelengths, measured in nanometers, have different effects. Blue light, which has a shorter wavelength, between 400 and 495 nanometers, can “target acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin and reduce active breakouts,” he said.
Red light, with wavelengths between 630 and 680 nanometers, can “penetrate deeper into the dermis” (the middle layer of the skin) and has been linked to skin rejuvenation, “stimulating collagen, reducing inflammation and aiding cell repair and healing.” As early as the 1980s and 1990s, NASA was studying how red light affects plant growth in space. Technicians working on the experiments also noticed that bruises and cuts on their hands (when exposed to light) healed faster than usual.
At the same time, near-infrared light has a wavelength of 800 nanometers; it can further improve circulation and ensure that cells receive more oxygen and more nutrients.
Dr. Mohan says professional-grade light therapy devices “are often backed by decades of controlled clinical studies that support improved collagen production. [and] With regular treatment over several weeks, it can reduce inflammation and show visible changes in fine lines, wrinkles and skin elasticity” or, in the case of blue light, “leave acne sufferers to have clearer skin by reducing acne-causing bacteria.”
But that doesn’t mean the same applies to the futuristic masks you see on Instagram. Many studies on its efficacy have been conducted on very small sample sizes or are funded by beauty brands. Harley Street dermatologist and founder Dr. Adam Friedmann explains that even though they do show positive results, those effects tend to be “more subtle and heavily dependent on consistency and correct use.” ProDerm UK Dermatology Clinic.
Dr. Mohan added that home products “release much lower energy” than clinical products; the number of bulbs and the intensity of these LEDs vary from product to product, and they certainly don’t offer “the same level of LED technology or energy delivery found in certified medical devices used in professional clinics.”
He also pointed out that the Advertising Standards Authority had recently had to ban some online advertisements for LED face masks because they claimed they could clear up acne and rosacea. Mentioning such skin conditions also counts as a medical claim, and only devices registered with the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) can make such claims. “Currently, there are no LED face masks that comply with medical device regulations, so these devices are purely cosmetic at best,” Dr Mohan said.
He’s not the only skeptical expert. Consultant Dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto, Founder self catering londontold me she “didn’t like” the devices because “despite heavy marketing, the evidence behind them remains unclear.” In her view, “this is an extremely expensive investment for someone to make, given that the results can be largely unpredictable.” Dr. Ross Perry, Medical Director Aesthetic medicine The Skin Clinic believes that home options will have “more of a placebo effect than anything else.”
if you are still there If you’re interested in at-home light therapy, you need to really know your expectations (including taking stunning “glow” photos of your favorite influencers with a pinch of salt), commit to using them a few times a week, and dig into each product’s specs, rather than just picking the one with the biggest drop in sales after Christmas.
This is an extremely expensive investment for someone to make, considering the results can be largely unpredictable.
Dr. Anjali Mahto
Dr. Friedmann recommends checking that the mask you’re eyeing offers “clinically relevant wavelengths” and has adequate power output, and make sure the LEDs are evenly distributed on the face. It also requires a “good facial fit” to really work. “Price alone is no guarantee of effectiveness, but very cheap devices often lack the specifications needed to produce meaningful results,” he said.
Dr. Friedman added that your mask should also provide adequate eye protection, and anyone who suffers from “a photosensitivity condition, is taking photosensitivity medications, or has certain eye conditions” should consult a doctor beforehand. Also, you should be aware that blue light can exacerbate hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin tones.
Essentially, we need to be wary of any big marketing promises that suggest a £150 mask will give you a youthful look within days. “Home devices are designed to be safe rather than powerful, which means results will be slower and less dramatic,” notes Dr. Friedman. They can “serve as useful maintenance tools,” he adds, but we need to be wary of claims that suggest they can replicate the results of clinical treatments.
So while red-light robot selfies can be fun, it’s important to remember that there are no shortcuts to great skin — and any product that claims to offer this might be too good to be true.