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Paris Men’s Fashion Week came to an end on Sunday, and two messages kept popping up on the runways: Dress well and your clothes will last.
Japanese The powerful Sacai breaks the usual upper and lower silhouettes and launches new styles.
HermesIn a touching farewell show for veteran designer Véronique Nichanian, she expounded on simple lines and longevity.
Here are five trends highlighted in the final days of fashion shows, including nods to each of the big collections.
The coat is back
This season’s key piece is the coat – long, tailored and eye-catching.
At Hermès, Nichanian ended her last menswear show after 37 years with a dark coat in glossy crocodile.
Early looks included aviator-inspired pieces such as shearling bomber jackets, ear flaps and stand-up collars, as well as shearling dyed coral pink.
Accessories were still going strong: boxy duffle bags and boots with bright orange soles.
Junya Watanabe also made outerwear the centerpiece of his show, launching classic camel and navy silhouettes, then mixing them with sporty pieces like bomber backs, leather jacket fronts and puffer quilting to make formal outerwear feel tougher and more modern.
Reimagined tailoring, not just style
Many designers are taking classic suits and jackets but changing the way they are worn on the body.
At Sacai, Chitose Abe adds new pieces—extra panels, pockets, and quilted inserts—to jackets, pants, and coats, often built around a triangle theme.
The show showcased tailored looks, workwear and power denim, including collaborations with Levi’s and APC, but the big idea remained clear: reinvent silhouettes without losing wearability.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus does the opposite and is even more shocking.
Kawakubo cut black suits and jackets in black, changing the lapels and hems, then introduced white versions of the look as the mood shifted from dark to light.
The styling was drastic (wigs and masks), but the clothes were still based on tailoring.
“Quiet” clothes, work is hidden inside
Another trend is surface restraint, while craftsmanship occurs in the cuts.
Kiko Kostadinov dispensed with embellishment and focused on structure: clean coats and jackets with folded panels, curved collars and careful draping, often in black and mineral tones.
Even the details are hidden—buttons are behind the placket, no visible hardware—so the shape and movement speak for themselves.
Well-dressed but sharp-edged
Most of the week has been formal, but not sweet.
Watanabe’s performance had a serious feel to it – a coffee table set, Miles Davis The soundtrack, the brooding cast, and his tailored black denim separates (from an ongoing collaboration with Levi’s) were styled like modern uniforms.
Louis Gabriel Nouchi furthered this idea with loud techno music and an “alien” theme in an underground car park.
Combining sharp outerwear and dark tailoring with provocative body-hugging separates and graphic references, he aims to create clothes that are both transportable and rechargeable in everyday life.
A push for longevity — and a call to slow down
In the ever-changing world of fashion, there are some moments that point in the opposite direction.
At Hermès, Nechanian said she included designs she first created decades ago to show they still work — and she offered a simple farewell message: “Slow down.”
White Mountaineering’s Aizawa also saw his final show as a long-term statement: technical outerwear, strong colors and careful pattern making were seen as the end of a 20-year chapter rather than a quick trend.
takeout
Paris didn’t end with a single look.
It ends with a mindset: Menswear is getting sharper again, but designers are working to make that edge modern—with new structures, sturdy outerwear and pieces that can stay in your wardrobe for years instead of months.